ok, i also have this post in the tech area.
I am stuck in a rut at the moment and i have purchased some things to help me out of it.
i need some ideas on how to apply non skid. I have all kinds of idea shot at me and i can always use more.
Cast-A-Coat
http://misc.kitreview.com/tools/castacoatreviewcs_1.htm
Tamiya mag #104 has a review of this application.
http://www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com/frames/BackIssues/Issue104.htm
Has anybody here used it? If so, can you give some practical advice on how good it is, and how easy to use?
Do you have to put it on an unbuilt kit or can you apply it to a partially completed kit?
You might like to try “Miniature Stone Coating” Which comes in varius colours.
It is sold in craft shops, i.e Doll’s houses and so on. Apply as per instructions.
Hope this helps…Kenny
Mask off area you want to leave smooth. Use Mr.surfacer 500 and spray on surface to be roughened. While still damp/wet use a stiff stipple brush and stipple the damp Mr. Surfacer and then let dry. Practice first on scrap.
That’s why cast a coat sounds better to me – you don’t have to spray it on. I’d love to know more about it.
Verlinden just used white glue and fine sand…
NTM
instead of sand try flour. I did on a diorama and it had a finer texture. Practice first!
You can always use the liquid glue and a stiff brush or finger method. Put a liberal amount of liquid glue on the area, wait a few seconds for it to react with the plastic, take a stiff brush or your finger and dab it into the softened plastic/glue mix. You have to work in small areas at a time due to the liquid glue drying quickly. This works great for cast texture as well. Easy and cheap, works for me. Looks great too.
Thanks, Gino, that might be the easiest yet. When you say liquid cement, you mean the stuff that comes in the bottle with the brush applicator? As opposed to tube glue and the Tamiya glue containers with needle applicators? I’ve never really used liquid glue, so I want to make sure I understand the product you’re referring to.
You got it. Comes in a bottle with a brush, any brand will work.
OK…here are some links in surport of the above posts…
as many know…this is a product we SELL via The Small Shop EU…we also developed it
…so I make no comment here…except to show the links for you
PLEASE remember it is our product so only click the link IF you need to/wish to see…they are direct to the page…
John Murphy…who wrote it did so WITHOUT assistance from myself…
Here is the link for you and a pic from the page…it is a very large pic so that you can see the even grain size…so be warned (well there goes my band width 
!!!)
http://smallshopeu.com/M1A3%20John%20Murphy.htm
It is a waterbased adhesive/dust based and non distructive to plastic and applyed by dusting it over the supplied liquid adhesive…you can remove it in the same way as any water based paint.
Places like WW2MM Hobbyshop…R&J etc in the USA stock it
I leave others to say good or bad things about it…it would ‘not be cricket’ for me to comment here on the forum
Alasdair
Cutting and applying fine sandpaper might work, say a 600 or higher…???
I have done this as well and it does come out pretty good. I used Automotive wet/dry sandpaper since it has a plastic backing, making it easy to glue down with superglue. I used it for the rear deck of my M1 Panther II by Trumpeter.
its me again, i found a website with a great demo on this subject. I see that someone mentioned using Mr. Surfacer 500. I looked even more this stuff is pretty cheap too about $5.00 a bottle. Here are some links to the website and a place where you can buy Mr. Surfacer 500.
http://www.best1hobby.com/
Mr. Surfacer 500 is made by Gunze Sanygo
http://www.greatmodels.com/
Both of the above have Gunze Sanygo, plus alot of other great deals
THis is the website with the M1A1 comparision on the top makers of the tank. At the end of the article you will find the link to the non skid article.
http://vodnik2.republika.pl/pages/m1-comparison/m1comp1.htm
I have the Cast-a-Coat system but have only used it on several test pieces so far to see how I want to apply it to the model, either by brush or some other way. Plus if I should mask off the area or not. So, sorry I cannot verify that it works good or bad. But from what I have done with the test pieces, I think it will be a good way to make anti-slip surface.