Anyone out there use a brush???

Hello, all:

I HATE to use an airbrush. However (comma, he said) after I’ve gotten the inside parts painted (with a real brush) I’m left with the outside to paint. Does anyone use a brush-brush to paint their aircraft? I know that some finishes and patterns REALLY need an airbrush, but I find them a real nuisance to clean, change colors, get the mix right, set the air pressure correctly, perform small-animal sacrifices (skunks are good for this) and pray and meditate before I start painting. What other options do I have?

Or should I resume painting figures, which don’t, generally, require an airbrush.

Thanks to all who reply.

With best regards,

Steve Mack

Steve, a lot of people still use brushes, and if you want, do for it bro! I have seen some awesome work down with brushes! Sorry to hear you don’t like your A/B! I hate having to clean it up every 5 minutes it seems, but I dislike brush painting more, so it all evens out. You might check out the Painting forum farther down from the aircraft forum, it will probably offer more advice! I know there are a few guys that use brushes, and I’m sure they would be more than happy to share some expert advice with you![:D]

LOL- I’m just the opposite. I hate to brush paint, and I love my AB. If I could figure out how to dry brush with the AB, I’d never touch a brush again. [;)]

I’m with you on the hassles of using an airbrush. The “master modelers” may shudder, but I have used a brush for many years (over 50) and rhe results look just fine to me ! I only use an airbrush (after much whining) on the really big scales like 1/24th. So brush away and the masters be D***** !!

Haha, drybrushing with an airbrush. Something tell me that could be hard todo JWB

I agree completely! I only use my AB for exterior finishes, because there’s usually only 2 or 3 colorsto paint. However, there’s usually a long break between each color, because I hate cleaning and fiddling with the AB. I brush paint all my interiors, and until about 3 months ago, I also brushed my exteriors. I can offer you a couple tips: work slowly, always try to paint parallel to the part (front to rear on fuselages, root to tip on wings, or the other way around.), use a soft brush about 1/4"-1/8" wide, and make sure the paint is the right consistency. This is the hardest part, because if it’s too thick, it will pile up and will show a lot of bush strokes. If it’s too thin, it will run all over the place and make a mess. It’s mostly just a matter of trial and error. I’ve found that Model Master enamels are the best for brushing, they usually require little or no thinner.

I use both, I love my airbrush but sometimes I just don’t want to fuss with it so I just brush my paint on the old fashioned way. I actually enjoy brush painting but sometimes I want those soft edges only an airbrush can give.

I use Model Master acrylics and love them, they lay down smooth with a brush. I also use them in my airbrush but they need to be thinned a bit, I use 5 to 10 drops (your mileage may vary) of Liquitex Flo-Aid in each paint cup I spray on.

Here is one I hand painted not the greatest example but the only one I have a pic of.

I use both brush and Airbrush for painting but only use an airbrush when panting model exterior. A few things you can do to help keep airbrush clean is spray thinners through it between coat sprayings… for Acrylics use windex, alcohol, or acrylic thinner… for enamels use Testors Airbrush thinner, paint thinner or mineral spirits. This will save time cleaning it after use.

Air Master

Try using cellulose thinner for both. I believe you call it laquer thinner on your side of the pond.

Experiment first, but Ive found that it etches the paint slightly so is self priming for acrylic, dries really quickly, helps brush paint acrylics and dosnt effect gloss/matt finishes.

I`ve used it on the following manufacturers with no problems.

Enamel

Airfix (real old stuff in bottles that had dried hard, dropped in a screw and shook like crazy), Revell, Humbrol, White Ensign, & DYI store varnishes and enamels.

Acrylic

Tamiya, Mr Colour

Cellullose

This was a small example of original Aluminium Min.O.Def paint that a friend of mine gave me from when he was in the mob doing his national and was very dried. (he was 70 this year) I attacked it with a screw driver dropped in some small screws and thinner. This paint is great!. Shake it a little and you get a tone ideal for a doped canvas. shake it hard and you get a finish for 2nd generation jets a sort of silky matt.

I have also used it to thin oil paint for washes but it dries much quicker than spirit based thinners. If using it over enamel spray on a coat of thinned Tamiya acrylic gloss to seal the enamle

I use brushes and I am happy with the jobs that I do with them. A/B are nice at times but they require too many cleanings, thinnings and other things. Also I just do not have the space to set one up - that is a big factor for me.

Cheers [#toast],

Eric

seeing some brush painting tips, I’m thinking about brushpainting the outside of my corsair.

remember, thin properly, soft brushes, use fewest strokes as possible, go back and sand lightly to flatten finish if necessary. I find these yield results that slap my airbrush in the face (nozzle?).

ITW -

We all have to do what works best for us and within the confines of our work areas.

I only use acrylics (MM Acryls) and an older Testors (now Aztek) airbrush, actually two of them, one single action and one double action. Maybe they’re not the greatest tools going, but with acryls being water based, clean-up couldn’t be quicker and switching between colors is at worst is a change of the paint pot.

Sure, I use brushes for detail work and “touch-ups”, but if the work requires anything more than a 3-0 brush, the air brush comes out. Also, since acrylics typically won’t cover as well as enamals or lacquers, especially, the lighter colors, sometimes, there’s really no choice. I’ve even gotten very high gloss auto bodies with acryls and the normal sanding/buffing procedures.

If you not happy with the air brushes you’ve used, they other types. The one that works for you doesn’t have to be the “best”, it just has to be the best for you!

Archer1 out.

Very few people can achieve an airbrush quality finish with a brush. Even for those few who can, the time input is far greater than using an airbrush. I use my airbrush as much as I can. Brushes are used only for cockpit detail painting and drybrushing and panel line washing.

I know what you mean about cleaning the airbrush. May I suggest you something different? I bought a cheap airbrush at walmart. It is the Mighty-mini airbrush with compressor set from Testor. For around $50 you get an external mix airbrush which works really good (I did all my models with it so far) and this is the easiest airbrush to clean. I’ve been very satisfied so far.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHLR3&P=WR

I agree with you on the airbrush issue sometimes. There are times when I just don’t want to use my a.b. Sometimes I’ll use spray cans. I’ll take the the extra time and make the masks that I need to be made if it means not having to deal with the a.b. I’ve brushed on 1/72 but nothing really in 1/48. As far as the rattle cans, I try to choose the plane that I know there are colors for in spray form. Obviously there aren’t as many choices with sprays but it’s a small price to pay for not having to deal with cleaning every 5 mins.

Real aircraft are mostly painted with an airbrush, albeit a large one. So, there really is no way to duplicate that effectively with a brush-brush, especially on exterior paint jobs (this is what we do, replicate as near as possible a real subject, down to the methods used in it’s finish). The one exception that comes to mind is some of the Jap and Russian-front winter camo jobs. They were rough, expedient finishes and lend themselves well to brushing - albeit with little brushes and little model-man sized brush strokes!

In 1/72 scale you can do a pretty convincing job of it, though, since scale viewing distance is longer than with larger models. noetheless, if you are doing a large bird, like a bomber, it’s back to the A/B.

Airbrushes can be a bit cranky, Ill admit, but I find that the best way to alleviate much worry is to THIN your paint, dont try to cover too much at once and RPACTICE. Yes, I said practice, much as you would a musical instrument. Buy a whole bottle of paint and just paint stuff with it. I use white cardboard stock and merely “doodle,” mixing paint/thinner in different ratios, testing out different needle settings and just generally playing around. And yes, I expend extra effort to keep it clean, clean, clean.

I use both “types” of brushes, as do many, and I find I like the airbrush better. But, I find that the media mix of brush-brush for detail works and airbrush for everything else is needed to get the results I want. It’s one of those, “do what you must,” situations.

So, man, tighten your belt, dive in and make the airbrush your friend.

I’m not going to tell anybody what the right way is cause even though I have an opinion I know it’s not right or wrong, but I think where there is a will there is a way and there’s nothing you can’t do with a brush if you have patience and find the right way to do it. I have never used an airbrush and the only spraying I do is dull coat to lock in chaulk weathering. If a painter can make any finish on canvas why do we suddenly seem to think it’s impossible when it’s 3D and on plastic? Besides, having a steady hand and a fine brush makes any canopy framing no problem, I hear some guys talking about canopy masking nightmares and I’ve never had to deal with that.(I need to get a digital camera one of these days, I did an Me-163 an did the camo with a brush, paint, a Q-tip and thinner and I’m very pleased with the way it came out.

Steve, Check out this thread on Hyperscale…YOU CAN brush paint …

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47751/message/1169568100/Tamiya+Mustang%2C+1-48

Just to brush my teeth with. I try to use an airbrush for as much as I possibly can no matter how small the part.

Apparently, I am an insensitive boor who doesnt mind telling someone what to do or not do. Well okay, I can live with that. [:)]

Obviously, you can do what you wish and as the link provided proves, it is possible to do it well with a brush. Ill wager though, that the person who did the Mustang was no novice and had a proven method he/she followed to arrive at those results (which normally involves a particular ratio of thinner to paint and practice). I wonder, too, how much more would have been involved in a multi color camo scheme.

Ive tried brushed-on finishes a long time ago and found that for all it’s quirkiness, the airbrush is the best tool for MOST of us. I’ll stand by that, PC or not.