I am having trouble getting the small rivet details to come through with a ball point pen , as suggested in the intruction sheet. It works good with the larger ones mind you , but there are some on a fender kit that aren’t coming out too well ! Any suggestions on a tool I could make or buy ?[B)]
I use dimensional fabric paint to do my rivets. I’m not familiar with PE sets so my suggestion might not be what you want, but it does work…
Couple of suggestions:
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Go to www.micromark.com and look at the sensi-press. It is superb for making rivets. To be really accurate you’ll need the X/Y table that is sold separately, and of course, the bits. If you decide to buy the press, get it from Harbor Freight–big savings. You’ll still have to get the bits and x/y table from micromark, though.
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Purchase some Grandt-Line rivets, bolts, etc. from Walthers. They come in various sizes and look great when applied. I use them “religiously”. Modelkasten also used to make bolt heads, etc. Don’t know if they still do or not.
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You can also make rivets using tiny drops of thick super glue or white glue. My concern here is consistency, and practice is required to really make them look good–just my opinion of course.
Hope this helps a little
Gip Winecoff
Spector, I took a large sewing needle and cut the point off just a little then sanded it smooth. Placed in a pin vise it presses the rivits out pretty good.
Eric
Hey Spector:
Are you having problems pushing out the dimple on the other side or just making it distinct? The problem may be cured in this way. On a scrap piece of flat styrene, drill a hole about 1mm deep that is slighly larger than the diameter of your desired rivet. Place the PE piece atop of that small hole and depress w/your ballpoint pen/dulled needle, etc. The result is a cleaner rivet on the other side. Hope this makes sense.
hi spector,if you can get a scrap general lee/grant like i did then you can cut the (lots) of rivets off with a scalpel and have a supply for a lifetime [:D]
Thanks guys,… great ideas all . The main problem I had was making the smaller rivet details look distinct , using a pen they ended up just bumps , I just needed something a bit smaller than what I had ( fine point ball pen ) the larger rivets came out quite well although I still like the rivets on the tamiya kit better , but you can’t have your cake and eat it too here I suppose [B)]! erush: are you having problems with the instruction sheet details W/ your aber kits? The language barrier in this case is just horrendous , the picture details are not much better , one would think something as complicated as these are they would describe what you have to do a bit better ! The big Tiger has to be even worse ,…10 fold ! I have respect for your efforts on those tanks ! Oh one hint on the Aber though definatly anneal ( heat to red, then let cool ) the aber frets before buildng , it allows one or 2 extra bend mistakes believe me ( and if anyone is like me , that is a good thing )!
Hello,
If you do go for the micro-mark solution, no need to go there to pick up the required pieces.
You can get all the same required tools from InternetTrains http://www.internettrains.com/norshorlin.html Much cheaper then micro-mark and it is the exact same thing (Micro-mark buys a lot of there over priced tools direct from NORTHWEST SHORT LINE and puts there own name on it)
Also the X-Y table (The Riveter) that styrene was talking about is also sold there with all the bits. http://www.internettrains.com/norshorlinri2.html
Very nice tool indeed. Can be used on many different applications.
Check it out.
Hope this helped
BUDA