I was just finishing mine up when wing nut “Wowed” us with his. Well here are some pics, I think she’s pretty much done, might add some figures riding on the engine deck. Real nice kit, had a lot of fun building even with those busy Dragon directions. Bummer, after viewing the pics I discovered those nasty injector pin marks on the spare links on the turret[banghead][censored].For now I’ll leave them, maybe I’ll go back soon and take care of them.
WHat a beautiful tank! Nicely finished and a very pleasing “clean” finish! Did you use the SIlly Putty method for the camo? It looks great!
Note: now you learn that before actually saying a model is “finished”, download pictures of it to your PC, and scrutinize them! I have been amazed at the little details that jump out that I may have missed when looking at the blown-up photos! Bummer about the spare tracks, but really, that’s an easy fix!
Did you get the rear engine screen decks correct? I thought that the two slatted ones which you have on the right side were actually on only the rear vents? I may be wrong, but I’m just wondering if that was what the directions said?
Anyway, a nice clean kitty! [:D][tup][tup]
Nice job,great camo. I really like the hard edge camo job’s.A little to clean imo but hey this is you’r build.[tup]
A little trick for filling those pin mark’s,spread a little super glue over them and sprinkle baking soda on it then paint.I’ve used this method on muffler’s and it give’s them that rusty look when painted,take a look at the muffler on my Marder and you’ll see what I mean.
Also doog’s tip on checking out you’r work on you’r PC is agreat idea. I’ve been doing it my self lately and have caught all kind’s of little thing’s.
P.S. found Dragoncare thank’s for the help.
Despite the “minor” flaws you pointed out it looks really good! Nice job on the camo aswell, is it the sillyputty method?
Great work,
Chris,
edit: The mud on the tracks looks good aswell, what did you use to make it?
Well, I really like the build. Camo is sweet, and the magic tracks look great. A winner in my book.
NEVER USE BAKING SODA WITH PAINT OR LACQUERS!!!
YOU’LL BE SOOOOOOOOOOOORRY!!!
NEVER!!!
Hey WOW yourself[:D] Looks great. I can’t remmebr what I saw online but I did the grates in the rear the same as you.So if it’s wrong… we’re both wrong. Now where did I see that[%-)]
Tracks and wheels look real nice. as does the camo. tricky bit of masking you’v done there.[tup]
I too have heard bad things about bakinbg soda. I did what panzerguy said but used gray paint and some dirt from the rustall set fine ground to a powder. I guess ground pastels powder would work too.
Thanks guys for taking a gander and for the kind words. I guess I’m not quite done yet. Those little flaws are going to eat at me , especially after all the work I put into this build.
Townsy11 I did use the silly putty method, the stuff is great you can keep using it over and over. I have two “eggs” of it, and that seems like plenty. The mud was made from fine dirt mixed with Woodland Scenics static grass and their white glue/scenic cement, then dabbed on with an old brush. This works great for me.
doog I followed the directions pertaining to the slotted grills and I checked my references (Achtung Panzer No. 4) and they show them in the correct spot. You nearly gave me a heart attack on that one [(-D], I didn’t want to have to try to fix that one, the spare tracks are one thing but that would of involved some clever surgery, especially with all the small fragile parts. I appreciate you checking my build out though, love that E 100 you are building.
doog what kind of problem’s have you had with the b-soda I have’nt had any.At least not yet.
Nice work on the camo pattern!
As far as the baking soda use goes, baking soda is actually an active chemical compound. Over time it’s going to react with the plastic, the lacquer/paint, etc. and isn’t something stable to be used in modeling. Even though it’s been painted/treated, it’s still going to draw moisture out of the air and eventually you’ll have a chemical reaction on your hands. It’s not going to be pretty.
Man, I feel bad even telling you this, but I used to use it EXACTLY as you described–for rust on mufflers, spare tracks, etc…in about a year or so, my models all started oozing a viscous, oily brown gunk, like as if it were just oozing out of nowhere.
After a long, frustrating quest for answers, I finally talked to someone at Arm & Hammer directly, and they let me know that it was reacting with the paint.
tried saving the models, but I was so disgusted and PO’d that I just trashed them all–about a dozen in all. LESSON LEARNED!
I hope you can salvage yours if this happens? [sigh]
Actually the suggestion of using baking soda AND super glue is a viable method. Combined they form a translucent acrylic that is easy to sand and finishes well. I have several cars that I’ve used this as an alternative to bondo and most are at least five years old now and exhibit nary a sign of chemical break down. Automotive primer was used as well as a variety of auto, hobby, and craft paints.
The body sides of this car had deep indentations for the molded chrome trim. I used baking soda and super glue to fill them. Plasticote primer, and Kryon gloss white were used for the final finish. This car is five years old now, has survived a move across country, and these photos were taken early last month for the SAE forum.
I whole heartedly agree with the warnings about baking soda, just wanted to point this out.
Wayner