i got a AMT KC-135 stratotanker 1/72 scale. and im getting ready to build it has anyone built one that can give me tips and advise. Also how do i get rid of the big fat seam line when you put the 2 halfs together without messing up detail and the kit?
Never built that kit, but I’m quite used to deal with seam lines on fuselages… My favourite way of doing that is to test-fit first without any glue. You can see straight away where the problems will be. If there are major fit issues, I’ll do my best to have the top part of the fuselage as neat as possible, leaving the main mess on the belly, where it’s less likely to be noticed!
When I’m ready, I’ll use superglue to attach the fuselage halves together. No need to apply glue everywhere, just a various ‘strategic’ points. I then apply liquid polystyrene glue along the seam, on the outside, and wherever I can reach inside.
I might use masking tape to get a very tight fit.
Let dry for a day or so. Next, inspect your model and see where putty is required. I try to use a little putty as I can becase there’s often some shrinkage that appear several days/weeks later and usually when you’ve painted and decalled… Instead I use minute amounts of superglue and liberal amounts of accelerator to fill in most or all gaps. Sandpaper/files are applied onto the dried glue as early as possible as superglue keeps getting harder and harder as you wait! The files can leave marks and it is at this point that I’ll use putty, preferably one I can remove without any more sanding, with Nail Polish Remover and a rag.
sanding and filing will often fill in or obliterate engraved details or raised ones (panel lines in particular). A fine raised line can be acheived with a sharp blade: lightly pass the blade where the line should be and the trench you create will look like a raised panel line (the cut is too thin, and passing the blade in the plastic has created two ridges that will look like a single raised panel line). Engraved details is just re-engraved, this time using a sharp blade and several passes.
A thin coat of primer will reveal any imperfections. Time to start again, or time to go on with the rest of the model!
Liquid polystyrene glue?? Well i been using Zap a gap for my models, Is that a right kinda glue? and what is this accelerator …a glue …a filler …a coater?
Zap a gap is a cyano-acrylate glue no? Like a superglue? If so, nothing wrong with it. But liquid poly is als needed for your models and you’ll find this type of liquid glue in any model shop. Brands in the US will be different from what’s available here. We have the Revell or the Humbrol here. Both are good, but I prefer the Humbrol product because it’s so fluid. This kind of glue melts the plastic and create a very strong joint, creating one part out of two, if you know what I mean.
Accelerator is a liquid you can apply onto fresh superglue to make it harden faster. Usualy comes in a little bottle with a brush and/or a spray for easier application.
good luck with you kit. I finished mine about 3 months ago and while over all it wasnt bad there were some major disappoinments with it. Make sure you properly weight the nose if you going for a wheels down static display. I would even go over the recommended weight. I learned the hard way on that. Also the clear parts around the boomers station were not big enough for my kit, hope you dont have this problem. I have no idea how to fix it.
Hi T-BOLT My fave liquid glue is MEK PAK which i am told is available in the USA. It seems to be faster drying than humbrols liquid polly…Greg
I built that kit several years ago. My copy had badly warped fuselage halves. This created quite a challenge installing that long floor and getting the fuselage mated properly. My clear parts also did not fit well. Superglue and paitence will serve you well in this project.
Goodluck
Darren