Currently building AMT’s AC-130 H along with a Gundam for the Gundam build. Both fun builds but this Spectre built is something else.
To start, was inspired by a Ac-130H build I saw in the FSM magazine from 2006 so I wanted to try my hand at it. Instructions that are somewhat vague in where parts go, mislabeled parts on the original instructions. So much so that I have to use Italeri’s AC-130 instruction sheet since they re-issued the same kit with improvements.
Honestly never knew how big the plane is until I started. So here it is, enjoy.
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Some more work done on the gunship. A very “interesting” build for certain. Seams are sanded and hopefully taken care of, working on the putty, so I will need to work on that some more. The engines had to have putty added where there are flaps on the actual plane, yet no pieces included in the kit. Only major issue on my end was forgetting to build the hole for the brass tube to make this a in-flight build. Of course, remembered this step… after I closed everything up. 
The putty on the engines and work on the wings.
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Look at all those seams, must be an Italeri kit.
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Mustang8376, your C-130 progress is looking great. Sorry about the mishap of forgetting to drill the hole for the support stand. I had this kit in my stash many years ago. I’d love to get the 1/48 scale one.
I believe Italeri reboxed the AMT 1/72 with some updates, so you would not be mistaken. To add salt to the seams issues, this the first model where I have to use Testor’s tube glue for most of the build. The Mr Hobby glue I normally use or Plastruct Weld didn’t quite work.
Looking at Scalemates it may have originated with ESCI. But more recent releases all seem to be Italeri. Confusing. But I know Airfix has their own mold because they are the only ones that got the lower corners of the fuselage right.
Not quite certain what type of plastic ESCI or AMT uses, but it seems to laugh at the cement I need for the build. I try to use as little super glue as possible so I do not run a chance of fogging any of the windows. Coming up on the final stretch building wise then it is prepping for priming and painting if everything looks good seam wise. here are some updated images. I was able to drill a hole and slide a plastic rod to the brass stand. Of course, it interfered with something on the inside because… why not. 
Ran into a problem where one of the guns came loose inside of the body of the build. So of course, I had to cut open the cargo door which was nice and flush for a closed look. Fixed everything but now… not so flush. 
Also attached the main wings, which for some reason one would not just attach and stay when glued. Even after it dried. Had to revert to using superglue and hoping that will be permenant. For some reaosn some glues will work on one section, but not on another part of the same model. Ughhh…
It’s just the Italeri curse!
So… ran into a little hiccup because you know, why not. After getting the cargo bay doors sealed up with no issues with having to sand anything, a gun on the inside broke. So I had to break open the door to fix everything, which means there was a mess of glue along the sides while I tried to get the door back in place, yet it wouldn’t sit flush. Gotta love this hobby! 
Here are the issues I am having with the seams, posted elsewhere looking for help on how to address. More putty or sand flush?
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I think I’d yell at everybody that she’s going down and to bail out before the thing hit the trash!! I ‘enjoyed’ seam and poor fit issues with the Revell AH64 that made me almost give up modeling. I persevered only because it is one of my bride’s favorite birds.
Sadly, it did crashland (why ‘crashland’ has to be one word is beyond me, but the first part is ‘forbidden’) off her crafts cabinet. The airframe was a total loss. 
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I’ve built the Revell Apache, I know exactly what you mean regarding the seams on that model and it’s tendency to…“land at high velocities into many pieces” from the shelf. 
here is the current look for my AC-130H. Still tackling the seams, yet it is getting there. Running into an issue if I sand too hard, it will crack along the seam itself on top and I have to glue and start all over again.
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Here is where the build stands for now. I might have to live with the seam down the top and bottom due to breakage when trying to blend. I will try to minimize the seam as much as possible.
I painted the engines and IR deflectors so they can be installed.
Drop tanks painted and I experiment with black basing and marbling.
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While I am showed the pics on another thread asking how to deal with seams, I wanted to share the latest. The upper seam seems to eb gone due to a lot of sanding and trying out using sprue goo. Will try on the lower seam and see if that works. Also I cans till see there are sanding marks, since I literally started sanding with 80 grit. maybe a little too rough, but it did get the job done. I did redo the seams on the drop tanks, figured I could at least try to minimize them some more. I will try to get some pictures of them later. So enjoy, and thank you everyone for all of the tips and suggestions.
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My first true attempt at panel line scribing. Better than I expected, definite room for improvement. Just need to touch up some areas with black primer then I will be ready to do the marbling and then the base color of light ghost gray.
before the primer:
After:
That’s quality work!
Hi @Mustang8376
I haven’t really been following this build and just kind of caught up on the seam issue.
First off, let me say that your perseverance and hard work really shows in the last few pictures. Great recovery.
Looking at the earliest seam fixes I can’t help but notice the large gap you were working with. From my perspective (I’ve fought this same battle) you were trying to fill a gap with putty but no structure to support. I think having pieces of plastic bridging the gap from the inside (either alternating tabs or a long step) would have solidified the initial joint providing strong support for the finishing. Possibly this would have even reduced the step between the two halves.
Just like with auto body repair, you can’t fill a hole with just bondo, you need to replace structure then use the filler to finish the surface. Once you put the sprue goo in, it basically created the structure on top of the previously applied putty.
I don’t want to take anything away from the results you achieved, it looks sharp. Just a thought about the next one, to maybe save you some time and frustration.
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Thanks all, and to go along with what Frozin stated I take the mistakes as a lesson learned. IF the join looks like it is going to be an issue, to put some support behind it to make life easier down the road in case something comes up. Also to better plan where you are going to put the display rod so you don’t run into anything on the inside of the cabin!
