Interesting info there Neptune. You know, I’m wondering if the problems I had (since it was both with Alclad and MM Metalizers) wasn’t just the base coat of Alclad gloss blk (since I also sanded and used just regular primer) but it was perhaps finger print oil or residue from something?? I’ve used MM Metalizers before with no problems but for some reason this was a complete disaster.
Reasoned,
Alclad’s Website has a lot of good information on using their paints. And on occasion when I’ve had problems, I have e-mailed them and Tony Hipp himself responded. If you send him that picture of the peeled paint he might be able to advise you on what happened.
The site list the High Shine and the Regular finishes separately—only the High Shine finishes need a gloss black base—so you can cut through the piles of misinformation floating around the Web.
Regards,
Bruce
Excellent info, thanks Bruce.
I find the use of Alclad has a learning curve, like so many techniques in modeling. It is not a difficult curve however (I will say it that way to forgo arguments on shallow vs steep learning curves 
).
Now that I can do it well I frequently use it, even on planes or cars where only small areas need to look like bare metal. It is just another skill like airbrushing, applying PE, decaling, etc.
I took the time to watch the videos on application and although the “regular” Alclad looked straight forward with ability to go over primed or not surfaces, it was the “high sheen” application where I think my mistakes came. 1) I don’t think I covered well enough with the black gloss and 2) The demo showed REALLY light coats with the HS Alclad! I know mine were substatially heavier on the B-36, which makes sense when you have that much styrene to cover! Next time… [^o)]