Alclad-first time user

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Painting and airbrushing
1

I’m building a few aircraft in Northwest Orient livery and have decided to use Alclad to achieve the natural metal finish I want. What do I need to know? Anything special about airbrushing it? TIA

2
  1. Surfance preparation is key. Make sure you eliminate all of the scratches and flaws.
  2. Basecoat is equally important. Most people use a gloss black for a base coat. Make sure it is properly cured. I typically wiat 48 hours.
  3. While not a “must”, I like to use Future for added gloss. Again, make sure it is cured.
  4. Since Alclad is pre-thinned, no need to thin further. Depending on your AB and setup, I spray at about 15 PSI, but play around a little with some scrap piecs first. Adjust your settings to the results you are getting.

That’s a simple ABC of Alclad. Swanny (www.swannysmodels.com) has a more thorough write-up.

3

Just one more thing to add to Mucker’s remarks. Alclad is laquer based and it stinks like crazy, make sure you have plenty of ventilation and wear a respirator mask.

4

Hi.

Alclad II lacquers are excellent. Caution: You can’t be in a hurry when using and allow the gloss base colors to cure properly. I usually allow my models to sit a week before applying Alclad Chrome on them. I’ve been using Scale Coat II gloss black as my base.

Below are some railroad streamlined passenger cars that I refinished with the Alclad. The irony is that the Alclad Chrome #107 (imho) resembles polished stainless steel more than does the Alclad Stainless Steel lacquer. The trick I did was to apply one to two coats of very thin gloss clear to dull the shine just a bit.

For the full chrome or polished effect, applying Future works very well without dulling down the Alclad finish. One catch: Flush out the airbrush IMMEDIETLY as soon as you finish applying future as it will gum up the inside of the airbrush nozzle and tip within minutes.

5

AJB:

I’ll add just two more tips to the excellent ideas that have already been posted:

  • Novus #2 fine scratch remover is an excellent way to get a super smooth surface prior to priming. Be sure to get all of the residue out of recessed lines and similar areas before priming (I usually wipe the model down with alcohol and then ream out the lines with a toothpick).
  • Alclad is very thin and settles out quickly so be sure to keep it well stirred.

I love the look of Alclad and even though the preparation is a PITA, I’ll never use anything else for NMF.

6

You need to use a gloss black base only on the four High-Shine Alclad 2 paints:

Stainless Steel
Chrome
Polished Aluminum
Aircraft Aluminum

All the other colors are not as shiny, ranging all the way to Dull Aluminum, and will work fine with any good filler/primer, such as Alclad Gray Primer and Microfiller or Mr Surfacer 1200. As mentioned before, a perfectly smooth surface prep with no dust, scratches or any other imperfections is the key.