im a mostly airplane modeler, im going to start tamiya’s enzo ferarri for the young guns GB. its gonna be a straight out of the box build, but i just need to ask a few questions cos i aint taking no chances. ive done 2 cars before, but neither of them this…spectacular.
firstly, after i finish spraying sanding and waxing my chrome yellow body to a showroom shine, i plan to mask off the outside (yellow) with tape and maskol and spray the inside panels black. will masking off the finished bodywork ruin the finish ? if masking will harm the finish, how should i mask/paint ?
second, what is the best way to attach windscreens to bodies ? good ole elmers ? or will something else be better ?
also, how essential is it to have a white basecoat for the yellow? i have Mr surfacer 500 ,thats gray. would another layer of white tamiya primer make all the difference ? i can spend money, but i am running on a 30 SGD a week allowance, and a can of white priner runs at 12.90 [:S]
any other tips/suggestions ? im more than willing to hear them, cos im relatively new to modeling.
HEY,
I just started building the revell kit and there is also alot of screen/mesh. I use elmers white glue or the stuff that dries clear. For the interior panels thing, just spray that first, the paint the body. And yes, i do think a coat of white primer would help, but dont waste your money on the tamiya stuff if its just for going over gray. I use rust-oleum plastic primer. Works fine. Just get a large can of white primer from your local hradware store ot wal-mart. I got the rust-oleum stuff at home depot.
I would spray the inside first, then mask the inside, and do the outside, white will make the yellow brighter, but if ya use a light gray primer, it won’t really be neccesary. As far as the clear parts, I use 5 minute epoxy. Hope this helps.
Lee
I would forgo the light gray primer and just use white primer. I use Gunze Mr. White Base but dubix is right on with his suggestion to get a hardware store white primer. It’s way cheaper but seems to be more rough so you may have to sand it smooth.[:)]
thanks markiii, i been there and its really helpful. i notice that in the “how to paint perfect bodies” tutorial on italianhorses.net , the author does not mention using clear at all. this seems a bit unusual cos many gudies suggest using clear spray for deeper color. how neccary is clear ? i built the tamiya subie impreza WRC 2001 and finished the body as per instructions in Tamiya Model Magazine, and i got pretty nice results.
any words of guidance ?
HEY,
I always put a clear cpat on my models. Seems like it makes it a bit more shiny and it protects the paint and stuff. If you have an airbrush you can use future floor wax but if not, you can use things like testors gloss clear, dupli-color, plastic-cote,etc.
im worried about white glue being strong nuff to hold the windows in place. will it be ? in my airplane models, white glue is strong enough cos gravity is working in the right direction, this cant be said for windows. is 5 minute epoxy easy to use ? any tips on how to use that method?
Get some of Testor’s clear parts cement if you can, it’s stronger and dries clearer (I think) than elmers, etc. The simplest way is to use elmers or some other white glue, which should be strong enough, one step up is Testors clear, then the epoxy. The step up in strength means a step up in price usually. Just my 2 cents.
I use Krystal Kleer and there is no question about its strength. I’ve used it on many 1/12th, 1/20th and 1/24th scale models. I also use it to hold small p/e bits which need applying to painted bodywork. I have also used it to fix the chassis/interior of a white metal 1/43rd model to the body (and they are heavy) with no problems what so ever. The advantage of white glue is that any overuse can be cleaned up in water without affecting the paint etc.
the humbrol glue isnt available in singapore i had a chat with my LHS guy. i got 2 ideas. clear paint, and two part epoxy. my only concern is that two part epoxy will discolor. will it ? are there any drawbacks to using clear paint ?
HEY,
I dont think that clear paint would be strong enough to hold the parts together, and also when it dires it shrinks so if it was trong nough you would have to use a few coats. IMO.
ah, so clear paint is out of the running. i now am considering 5 minute epoxy as reccomended by midnightprowler. would goop work ? its fairly transparent… im gonna look for the tamiya CA that comes in a pen dispenser. there are several hobby shops that i dont go to, ill look in those. ideally though ill go for something cheaper like the 5 minute epoxy. only problem is that it doesnt seem very transparent
i had a chat with my LHS guy. i got 2 ideas. clear paint, and two part epoxy. my only concern is that two part epoxy will discolor. will it ? are there any drawbacks to using clear paint ?