Doing a project on the Natural Finish Group Build - a subject of which I know little. I do know that some metallic paints use non-organic pigments. Some of the earth color acrylics that use them can have pretty thick bits of pigment - carbon black would be a good example. Anyway, I’ve heard that for at least some of the metallics that it’s a good idea to use at least a .35 nozzle: that some of the smaller nozzles can clog. My main gun is a .20 Harder Steenbeck, but I also have a Paasche Talon at .5 that I use for a lot of stuff. I’d really not like to find the hard way that tiny hunks of metal are going to gunk up the HS. Anyone know if bigger is better for nozzle size and NMS paints?
Eric
I haven’t airbrushed alotof NMF paints, but I think it would depend on the paint brand too. Alclad being real thing and fine pigments, as opposed to Tamiya acrylic being thicker with larger pigments. All I can tell you is I’ve used alclad and MM Metalizer (the pre thinned for airbrushing) with my Iwata eclipse and it handled them perfectly. I’d imagine these 2 paints with the your Harder and Steenbeck should work fine.
Alclad & Tamiya acrylic metallic go through the H&S 0.2mm set without any problems if it’s of any help. Alclad works fine with the 0.15mm set & should go through just about anything.
The “pigment” in Alclad is ground exceedingly fine. I am not aware of anyone around here having problems with it.
I’ll report in. I’m not going to try alclad - I don’t have a booth and a hard core lacquer paint isn’t worth it. I do have one of Gunze’s super metallizers which may be the same thing. I’m really hoping that one of the water based acrylics will be adequate or maybe a “kind of” acrylic like standard Mr. Color.
Some metallics can be a pain to airbrush, but the actual “metalizer” paints like Alclad or Model Master’s Metalizer line are designed specifically for airbrushing and you shouldn’t have any problems with them. I regularly shoot Alclad through my Iwata HP-C+ running a 0.2mm needle without incident.