The airbrush, or Jon’s brain?
[:-,]
Given what Ben said about paint seeping into the trigger area, I stand by my statement about the needle bearing. The friction of the bearing is what keeps the paint out of the trigger / air valve area. Sometimes when people have an aggresive cleaning regimen, the bearing is damaged or pulled out by mistake. HTH.
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Heh! The airbrush, sorry [:D] So it works now. I’m sticking to Enamels and Alclad for now until someone tells me a name or brand and where i can get this acrylic retarder stuff to prevent tip dry.
Any artists supply store. Brands that I know of are Golden, Createx, and Liquitex. All should work equally well, although there may be a problem with Golden and some Tamiya colors. (Still researching that. I’ll post results to the forums here.)
I thin model master acrylics with tamiya acrylic thinner. It works very well. Or at least as well as MM acryls can be expected to work. Which isn’t very well at all. If you must use acrylics, I reccomend Vallejo/color fo eagles etc. Pre-thinned in dropper bottles they are easily the best acryls. (Plus you can clean up with water, and that seems to be a plus if you’re randomly dissolving parts of your airbrush… [:)])
Cool! Note to all who may read this…I have decided the Badger 100LG, my first and only airbrush, is going to be used for acrylics only! It will keep maintenance costs low since i won’t be dissolving so many seals and O-rings…Tankmaster, does Squadron carry most of that stuff you mentioned? Whats the Pre-thinned stuff in the dropper bottles called?
sorry for not being clearer. Vallejo/color of eagles both come pre thinned in the dropper bottles. Squadron should have all the things i mentioned, if not try greatmodels.com or any other internet hobby site. good luck with the airbrush. [tup]
What “seals and O-rings” did you dissolve?
The needle bearing is FTPE (Teflon) and is not affected by thinners.
Now if you put lacquer or other strong thinners into the airvalve then that would cause problems as they are not designed to take that strong of thinner and neither is most any other airbrush for that matter.
I guess some of us are lucky enough to have two air brushes. I have a badger model 200 I’ve have had it for about 15 years now, just had to do a major overhall of the whole thing. I found that it worked well enough but I would have problems with it and when I did it was very frustrating. Well Two years ago my wife got me a new air brush as a birthday present, it’s a Pasche VL double action and I’ll tell you I have fallen in love with it. It is a much better air brush then the Badger 200. I found that the double action really gives me alot more control over the paint flow and air pressure, although it took me awhile to get use to it. I kept the badger as a back up, but since the rebuild I haven’t used it (and it’s just gathering dust). I’m not saying that badger makes a bad product, I think personally the double action air brushe’s are better for fine work. I’m sure that Badger makes a simmilar type of air brush. As for me I stay away from acrilic paints. I have always liked the enamel finishes better and found them easer to work with.