Hello
I am looking at getting an airbrush and was wondering what are good features to have and what do you not want.
Thanks
A few things just came to mind:
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It balances well in my hand.
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The trigger is silky smooth without play to give me a feeling of precise control.
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Easy to clean by backflushing and easy to disassemble for cleaning.
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High quality nozzle and needle that is more resistent to damage or bending. No plastic part.
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It atomize well over range of paint consistance.
Last, but not the least, reasonably price and easy access to spare parts.
A reputable brand & as already said access to spares.
Best grab a drink and sit down. I “do” go on! [:D]
What you don’t want is an expensive airbrush, that ends up sitting in a box because you aren’t comfortable using it. Or one that is hard to get parts for. It is very easy to damage the needle, and if you don’t have a spare and can only get them online, you’re dead in the water until the part arrives. See if anyone stock parts for airbrushes in your home town, and buy the best you can afford of that brand.
The BIg Three are Badger, Iwata & Paasche. Any of those (and more) are available at sites like
http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/
Those are just three sources, there are many, many more!
There are also brands like Peak, RichPen, Tamiya, Efbe, Thayer & Chandler (owned by Badger), DeVilbiss, Harder & Steenbeck and Aztek (owned by Testors). They all have their adherents and are all useful. Personally I stick with Badger, as they are US owned and made, and their service is extraordinary.
AIRBRUSHES:
Airbrushes come in different configurations, and you’ll have to choose for yourself which one would be best for you. Basically you have to choose between internal or external mis, single or dual action & siphon or gravity fed.
Internal vs. External Mix:
Internal mix air brushes atomize the paint into the air stream within the body of the airbrush, while external mix do so well, externally.
External mix are very easy to clean, but do not offer the range of control internal mix do. My preference, and that of most people is internal mix. Examples of internal mix airbrushes are the Badger 100 series, Iwata HP-CS Eclipse and the Paasche VL. External mix include the Badger 350, and Paasche H
Single vs. Dual Action:
Single action has a simple trigger: air flow on or air flow off. You control the line width by adjusting the needle postion and that position is “locked on” until you reset it. Very simple to use, and very precise. I have a Badger 200-20 “detail” brush that I use when I need extremely fine lines. I can set it and forget it, and the width stays consistent, even after cleaning. Popular single action airbrushes are the Badger 200 series, Iwata SAR, or the Paasche H
Dual action triggers control both the the air flow by pushing down on the trigger, and the needle position by pulling back on the trigger. Sounds harder to use in theory, but its pretty easy to use in practice. Dual action allows you to alter “on the fly” between thin and thick lines. Examples of dual action are Badger 105 Patriot, Iwata HP-CS Eclipse and Paasche VL.
Siphon vs. Gravity Fed:
Siphon fed brushes use either a small bottle or a color cup that attaches to the bottom of the air brush body. They require sufficient air pressure to pull the paint up into the air flow. Great for large surface area painting, they require more attention when cleaning as you have to deal with the paint left in the siphon tube. Examples are Badger 155 Anthem, Iwata BCR Revolution, or the Paasche VL.
Gravity fed have a permamently attached cup mounted to the top of the body. This allows for slightly less air pressure as gravity takes care of delivering the paint into the air flow. Less air pressure can result in finer spray control, or I should say finer OVER spray control. Relatively easy to clean, and slightly less wasteful of paint, as there is no paint left in a siphon tube. The Badger 100LG, Iwata HP-CS and Paasche Talon are good examples.
There is a third feed mechanism, though not often used in modeling, known as side fed. This has a cup that mounts to either the left or right (depending on the handedness of the owner), and is primarily an illustration air brush. It works much like a gravity fed air brush, and the cup can be rotated so the user can use it pointing straight down. Examples are the Badger 100SF & the Iwata Eclipse HP-SBS.
AIR SUPPLY:
Perhaps even more important, and which can easily can end up being the more expensive aquisition, is a good compressor or other reliable air supply. Your choices are propellent cans, propellent tanks, hobby compressors, air brush compressors or utility compressors.
Propellent Cans:
Often the first choice of beginners due to their intial low cost, some air brushes even are sold as a kit with the air brush and can in one package. I say initlal low cost, because you never stop paying for them. They can also be frustrating to use, as they don’t hold that much air. And they have a habit of running out of air before you run out of the requirement for air! You also have to consider just how much garbage they create, as the cans are not refillable. You can buy an entry level compressor for the cost of about a dozen cans. Their main benefit is quietness. Available from your LHS, or online model stores.
Propellent Tanks:
These refillable tanks are typically used for supplying CO2 for soft drinks, or as a supply of nitrogen for welders, these tanks offer a much greater volume of air (though I suspect they still run out at the worst time!) and are completely silent, other than the hiss of the air brush in use. Both gases are good for air brushing as they are considered “dry”, in other words, the compression of CO2 does not squeeze water out, as will happen with compressed air. They are fairly large, and can be a hassle to refill in some communities. They also have a fairly high startup cost. Since you have to pay for refilling, I don’t consider them a good investment. On the other hand, they will allow you to paint when there are sleeping babies in the house. It all depends on your unique situation! Available direct from the gas supply company in your area.
Hobby Compressors:
These are small compressors, typically a diaphragm powered supply. They can be found for as little as $50 at places like Harbor Freight, or as a “brand name” for around $120. Fairly noisy, and low powered (<40 psi), they can burn out quickly. I don’t recommend them except for the severely budget restrained (I’m married, too!). Typically offered only as tankless models. Refer to the online stores recommend above.
Air Brush Compressors:
I consider these a step up from the hobby compressor above. Basically the same compressor, only on steroids. Prices can range from $150 to YIKES! These are the types used by air brush artists, nail salons and t-shirt artists. Capable of running for long periods of time, and offer a better range of air pressure. TCP Global have some interesting models, as do Paasche, Badger and Iwata. They are typically paired with a small tank. I recommend double piston tanked models. Refer to the online stores recommend above.
Utility Compressors:
Typically found in garages, they are usually have tanks ranging from 1 gallon and up. I have a friend who has an automotive garage business at home and he hooks up to a 100 gallon behemoth. He NEVER runs out of air! These compressors are invariably loud, and large. However, they do allow you to fill your tires and run pneumatic tools. I use a 3 gallon “pancake” style and run a hose to my spray booth. Any reputable hardware store is a good place to buy these.
EXTRA SUPPLIES:
Propellent tanks and compressors require an air hose, and compressors should also use a water trap and particle trap (often combined). I strongly recommend an air regulator, to insure a consistant pressure. A good respirator is strongly suggested, as the fumes and particles from any type of paint is very hard on lungs. Various fittings to hook the hose to the compressor and also to the airbrush can be necessary, depending on your situation. All joinst should be reinforced with teflon tape, availabe in the plumbing section of your favorite DYI store. A spray booth is a good idea, but can be expensive for beginners to justify.
Still here? Sometimes I wish I got rated on word count, and not post count! [;)]
I would add something about those small cans of propellant, they are not the best if you are doing a lot of painting all at once, like a car body or the fuselage of a plane. The gas inside is stored under pressure as a liquid. To convert a liquid into a gas, it takes energy in the form of heat. Every molecule that is converted uses a bit of that heat and the can cools off. During extended sessions, the can can get so cold that it will actually frost on the outside. Once that happens, there little heat energy available for this process to continue and the pressure being delivered to your airbrush drops! You can compensate a bit by placing the can in a pan of warm (not hot) water and this warms the inside of the can. This helps but it isn’t a perfect solution.
Just flexing my brain muscle there a bit…Heh, heh…
To add something to what all those wonderful gentlemen said and that I agree with at 100%, and peculiarly with what Bgrig said that you must check the availability of spare parts : I live near the assembly line of the now biggest airliner (A380) at 12 kilometers of the fourth French city so not in any desert, but if I want to buy something other than two very basic Badgers or Paasches, I must buy it online so whenever I buy a new airbrush, I always buy one extra nozzle and two extra needles, as it is the “first aid kit”. Also that the “grip” is important as everything you must use in your hand, like a bow, a tennis racket, a golf club, … So if you can put one in your hand before buying, it is far better. As for me, for instance, Paasche Talon is a bit thick (subjective) and a bit unbalanced in the front (less subjective); on the other hand, I don’t like the Badger 150 because I get pain in my hand as it is too thin for me (at least the one I owned at the time). Another consideration too: some aspects can be arranged : I slipped on the Talon trigger so I put a piece of rubber on it; I did not like the Omni 4000 trigger so I changed it for the Badger L100 one (think I’m gonna try this on the Patriot also) . And think that the perfect airbrush of your neighbour may not be your perfect airbrush so the final decision is yours. in any case, try to stick to renowned brands as it is a global guarantee of quality.
Hey everyone
Thanks for the info, you guys have been really helpful [:D[
Does anyone know of any websites that have good airbrush reviews?
There is information on my website on the Badger 155, Patriot, and old style 200. Other than that, just do a review Google on the model you are interested in and you may find something.
Don
The answer is not really. They (reviews) are scattered all over the places and often somewhat subjective.
In addition to this forum, the “Tools & Tips” forum at ARC is a good one, but you will find many overlap.
You can also find good reviews at the airbrush forum at airbrushtech.info. It is more catering to the artist professionals.
Hey everyone…
Once again thanks for all the info.
I finally made it to the million dollar question: What airbrush should i get?
My personal preferences are: external mix, gravity feed, dual action, so…
My top choice is the Badger 105 Patriot right now. Any thoughts?
That would be my recommendation. By the way, all double-action airbrushes are internal mix not external mix.
The external mix airbrushes are ones like the Badger 350. [;)]
I second Mike’s recommendation for the 105 Patriot. You would be hard pressed to find a better airbrush for the money.
I am not sure about that.
For me, I like the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS the best among $80-120 airbrushes because it is GOOD ENOUGH and I can get spare cheaply locally. (I also have a Patriot 105.)
Keilau, it is quite easy to find an equal airbrush for the money, but are they actually better? I think Badger are best, you like Iwata, and I’m sure there are Paasche fans here as well. We can all argue that “our” air brush is the best, but in reality it is a subjective opinion with no clear winners. Chevy vs. Ford vs. Mopar.
In my experience with air brushes, indeed with all tools, is that the skill is in the user, and simply swapping the tool for another may not have the desired effect, or indeed any effect. I would not become better because Iwata is stamped on the body. It is possible that swapping my $75 100LG for a $400 Harder & Steenbeck could make air brushing more pleasurable, but would it be better? Certainly not five times better, which is what I would demand before spending that amount of money!
I’ll quote my own post, this from the paragraph before the section you quoted above:
With that, you can see that I am not recommending any one brand over another, but am suggesting that parts availability may be more important than brand. I go on in the next paragraph stating my preference, but even that is based on country of origin and service, rather than any biased viewpoint on its operation.
You have recommended Iwata numerous times, and have always stated parts availability to be a driving force in the decision making. I completely agree with that. In fact, I have no ready access to ANY parts in my town, and have no real choice but to order online for parts, and have settled on a brand that has proven over time to be not only excellent air brushes (far better than I am!) but with superlative service.
The interesting thing is that I didn’t actually choose my air brush. I had a very good friend (passed on now) who gifted me his old Badger 150. I liked it so much that I rebuilt it and then “upgraded” to its sister 100LG and a 200-20. Now I have three airbrushes that share the same head, nozzle and washers. Triple redundancy!
Jason18 asked what features would be good to have, and what you don’t want, not what air brush do we recommend. Based on the information provided, and for whatever personal reasons, he is leaning towards the 105 Patriot. MikeV and I agree, and indeed, he would be hard pressed to find a better brush for the money.
However, the HP-CS is in fact MORE money than the 105 Patriot. Dixie Art lists the HP-CS at $120 + shipping and handling and the 105 for $73.50 delivered in the lower 48 States. At the price range the Patriot is in, you would have to choose the Revolution CR, but that is a medium needle to the Patriot’s fine needle, and you would still need to add shipping to the total. Badger FTW! [:)]
I had an HP-CS as well and wasn’t really impressed. I sold it.
It was nice sure, but no nicer than my Badgers which are American made by Americans.
As I have said before the trigger on my Badger 100LG was smoother than the Eclipse…There’s another copycat name they stole from Americans. [:D]
Bgrigg, I am very careful about my wording. I said “I like” my Iwata the best. You will not find me saying “Iwata is better than so and so.” I made that statement (I like best) in response to your “hard press to find better”.
We are in violent agreement here.
The standard Iwata CR and the Patriot fine needle have the same size nozzle at 0.5 mm. The Iwata Eclipse CS has a finer 0.35 nozzle and costs more, so is the Badger Renegade Velocity with a 0.21 mm nozzle. As MikeV used to say, the nozzle size is not the whole story. You will have to put the needles side by side and see the difference in taper and finish between the needle of the CS vs. the Patroit.
The best airbrush is the one you enjoy using. Everyone to his own. I listed the importance of the features (to me only) in my first post on this thread. I tried to word it in a way not to impose my view on others. I believe jason18 who asked the original question will benefit from some objective evaluation as well as subjective user opinion too. The America made argument is important to some, but not to others. We are all here to share, not to argue.
If I may comment here.
Bgrigg said:
“I second Mike’s recommendation for the 105 Patriot. You would be hard pressed to find a better airbrush for the money.”
To which you answered:
“I am not sure about that.”
Now I do not know the intent of what you said in this statement but to a reader like myself I interpreted that as you saying there are some better than the Patriot in it’s price range. You then went on to mention Iwata’s.
I am not saying you are pushing one brand over another but that is how it came across to me.
Mike, I may have misconstrued Bgrigg’s original comment.
Bgrigg did not say that Patriot was “the best” airbrush at its price range. And I quoted his earlier comments on the availability of other brands.
Bgrigg said that Patriot was as good as any airbrush at its price range. I can agree with that and do.
Then we’re all good! [H]
Agreed!
Keilau is buying us all a round of Tsingtao! [B] [Y]