Hi. I’m still learning to airbrush camouflages freehand. I have a painting related question, but since it applies to airplanes, I figure I’d post it here.
For the sake of simplicity, I am categorizing camouflages into the following 2 types (in the context of airbrushing):
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The kind with soft and irregular demarcation lines - on the real aircraft, these camos have the “sprayed on” look even when viewed from afar. The borders between colors are irregular and very fuzzy, indicating the painter had some general guidelines on which color to apply to certain areas, but is allowed a little bit of creativity in the details. Some examples are the Southeast Asian scheme of Vietnam era USAF jets and modern Russian air superiority camo schemes.
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with stark borders and harder demarcation lines - these look like solid demarcation lines when viewer from afar, but are actually soft lines when examined up close. These camos also tend to have borders with a “one-stroke perfect curve” look. An example is the camo schemes on the French Mirage jets.
I hope I described them clearly. Anyways, my question is, how do you airbrush freehand camo type #2? I know pointing the airbrush at certain angles gives you control to the hardness/softness of lines, but that’s still not enough to replicate an “almost solid” demarcation line on a 1/48 jet. I also know that using stickytack as mask can accomplish that, but I’m trying to stay away from that stuff if I could help it. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Terry
I think you can only make the hard demarcation lines by using masks.
Try Tamiya tape, it’s very easy to use for masking.
Hi Lofy. The answer to your question isnt an easy one becouse every painter has his own style. Im going to tell you my unconventional method. If it works for you great.
First off most painters will tell you to lower the air pressure as low as posible. This is were I differ. I turn the pressure UP to about 40lbs and then using a fine tip on my Badger 150 Ill set the trigger stop so that just the tiniest amount of paint comes out onto a test paper. Whats happening here is Contol over the amount of paint comming out. From here its easy to slowly and gently draw the lines of demacration and then fill in the rest. Your not done yet. After the entire model is painted you may half to go back and paint the other color agian to harden up the edges. Back and forth,back and forth. Its the extra effert that makes the diffrence. This is the moethod I used to paint the A-10 below. With Acylics I use a 50%-50% Mixture and with Enamel Ill use 75%-25% thinner.
Hope this helps. Trevor M.
Jeff, thank you for your help. My Iwata Eclipse and compressor are relatively new purchases so I’ve only used them to paint one model (a mig-29) so far. I’m working on an Italeri 1/48 Mirage that I bought from a fire sale, a perfect kit for practicing freehand airbrushing hehe.
Btw, any chance of posting the link to pics of your beautiful A-10? I know it’s an award winner.
Thx
Jeff,
That A-10 is truly a work of art. (as is the 262). My compliments to your fine work. I have a couple of questions for you. Is that A-10 1/72? Secondly, I find your method of getting the soft lines interesting and hope to try your method soon, as I build lots of 1/72 (more Armor actually). Correct me if I’m wrong, but you appear to have several shades of the darker green. Was this intentional or was it a result of the method you used? Thanks for sharing your expertise and great photos.
AF