Get a piece of glass and press your finger over the needle to straighten it. If that doesn’t work, try this to reshape your needle. This is for a Paasche Turbo but it should work for any AB -
There was an excellent article on acrylics in the September 2001 issue of FineScale Modeler, which should answer most of your questions, especially concerning which thinners to use.
Dancin’ Seamus.
I’m discovering things by the minute with this new brush. Today, i took the red cap off the end to check which needle I was using. I noticed two nuts. One of them, I loosened to free the needle. What is the piece just in front of this. I can turn it left and right, but I don’t know what it controls. It looks like a barrel with a grip on it that the needle runs through.
KK,
The second ‘nut’ (closest to the main body of the 'brush) secures the return spring for the needle & trigger assembly. That should screw all the way out for complete disassembly. (Check inside the main body, you’ll see threads)
A tip - If you do completely disassemble your 'brush, use a light rub of beeswax on all the threads, including the head / airtip - just don’t get any inside the air / fluid passages. Makes for easier disassembly and seals as well.
P.S. Got out my VL 'cuz something jogged one of the few brain cells I have left. Now, this just may be my VL, but - If you screw the spring retainer in too tight, it will lock the needle forward.
P.P.S. Was re-reading that last bit and it needs some clarification. Tightening the spring retainer too tight locks the trigger forward (the retainer will contact the ‘finger’ behind the trigger and move it forward until the trigger contacts the leading edge of it’s slot). So - for re-assembly, remove the needle, tighten the retainer until the trigger locks, back it out until you get full trigger travel, then insert the needle gently until it is seated in the head and install its clamping nut.