I have been out of the modeling game for a long time now and I have decided to get back into it. I used to use enamel only, but I decided to go with acrylics now and I am truly disappointed. Is acrylic better for airbrushing rather than paint brush? It took almost three coats to get the solid coat that I thought would be in one. Any help out there?
Thanks,
Wes
What brand of acrylics are you using? i’ve tried alot of different brands, none of them seem to hand brush real well at all. I try and use only acrylics for airbrushing because the fumes aren’t near as bad so one can airbrush in pretty much any room in the house. make sure you use the same brand thinner, it may help, at least until you figure out how it airbrushes. Tamiya paints airbrush real well, and can go on as thick or thin as you like, just adjust the airbrush and thinning ratio.
Nathan
I am using Testors Acryl. But you answered my question perfectly. As I was using them I thought that they would work better for Air Brushing. Thanks for the quick reply Nathan.
Wes
By the way, do you know of any good web sites that give tips and instruction on learning how to do washes??
Thanks,
Wes
The thing I don’t like about airbrushing acrylics is that they dry too quickly- sometimes in my airbrush! If I answer the phone, or get distracted for any reason, I risk getting dried paint in the airbrush. I have been told I should add retarder, but that makes it a bit more work than enamel. I also find I can get a better gloss finish, for models that require gloss, with enamel. I find that I can brush acrylic if I prime well, and I like the fast dry, but very seldom use acrylics except for a few colors for which I can’t find a good enamel.
Nathan,
The only Acrylic I have ever had luck brush painting is with Valeijo. They are very opaque and thick but cover well. Taymia is the best I have used for Air Brushing.
First welcome back[snWcm] . I use both depends on what im building .Ron
I’ve had pretty good success brushing Tamiya acrylics so long as I keep it pretty thin. What I usually do is dip the brush in clean thinner first, then into the paint and I’ll have no problem…
Same here. I really prefer enamel. I mostly use Acrylics for washes so I don’t risk damaging the primary paint job. I only use Acrylics as a main color if I can’t find a color in enamel, like the Mahogany color I am trying to get for my F4 build. I can only find it in Gunze Acrylic…
Rich
Wes
I am pretty much acrylic always… I use a few different brands and have found that thinning, or lack of, is the key to success.
I guess after many years of using these (started out with the Polly S line) I just have a knee jerk reaction on how to apply.
In any event, hope you find what you are looking for and, best of luck
Thanks for the input fellas. My other question I had, was do you thin every enamel that you use? And how much?
Wes
I’m an enamel guy… I use acrylics too, but prefer enamels whenever I can, 99% of time using Testor’s or Testor’s Model Master enamels… I use rattle-cans for overall painting a lot though, too… Even for two and three-color camouflages…
As for thinning, some call it right at about the same thickness as milk… I thin them with Testor’s Airbrush Thinner most of the time, and just kinda eyeball the viscosity m’self, using a paint-hulk to “measure” the viscosity… If it’s too thin, I’ll either add paint, or just apply several coats…