I recently rejoined the hobby after a 20 year gap. I was wondering what some of you prefer to use to finish your kits. I had always used Pactra, Humbrol and testors, now Testors Model Master Enamels, but from everything I read, acrylics use is becoming more prevalent. Apart from the fumes, airbrushing with them goes fairly flawlessly… Anyone ever have any BAD experiences with acrylics? About the worst I ever had with enamels was crazing clear plastic on occasion…
the inherent problem with acrylics is they dry quickly, which can sometimes clog the airbrush or make it “spit”. That being said, I prefer acrylics and use them almost exclusively. At the end of the day it’s what you are most comfortable with. I see beautiful models painted with both.
If you decide on acrylics, check out the Color of Eagles lines, which I have really enjoyed.
I primarily use acrylics. The worst thing that happens to me is it coming off with masking. You just have to prime your model well to avoid this. I use enamels or laquers if I’m trying to get a good non metal finish.
Andy
I generally use acrylics for most airbrushing, and enamels/oils for washes and weathering.
Andy is 100% correct! Spray a primer coat over entire model prior to airbrushing as the primer coat helps acrylic paint bite down harder to the surface and helps prevent chipping and rubbing off paint.
Air Master
I got back into it after 20+ years last year. I started on enamels, like when I was a teen. The smell created some complaints from the family (the paint smell… they’ve learned to live with me…LOL) so I tried acrylics, and I love them. I use Polly Scale- they’re water based. They’ve been very good as far as adhering to the model surface, I just make sure the surface is well washed, and I wipe it down with alchohol (the rubbing type…) prior to painting.
I never use acrylic on bare styrene. I always use MM enamels. At least to prime.That is not to say acrylics are bad. I have had very good results using Tamiya, and still do.
I also find that enamels have a deeper more realistic hue. For instance I just painted a wood deck on a sailing ship model and used MM Sand. If I had used Tamiya deck tan, it just would not have come out as well. I also find the Tamiya flat white is like water and does not cover well.
Most experienced model builders use a combination. For any kind of faux metal finish, even on accessories , enamel can’t be beat.
Just one man’s opinion
The one time I used Testors Model Master Acryl paint, it dried on the needle and in the cup, and was very difficult to remove. I’ve since found out that they have a special thinner that will remove it, but haven’t tried it yet. I’ve also dabbled a bit with Tamiya’s paints and like them a lot, but stick with enamels for now simply because I have so many of them already in my supply collection.
I used Testors MM and Tamiya Acrylic. It depends on what I’m painting, but the balance lies with Testors.
I have used both and prefer enamels, they are cheaper and last longer. Plus I have always had better results with them.
Same here
Double ditto. Besides, I have invested a lot into them. [B)]
I use acrylics almost exclusively, and I use them for primers, as well. The only exceptions being metallic finishes and oil washes.
Acrylics are different from enamels, and each line of acrylics may be significantly different from all others. Most of the problems you will encounter have been mentioned previously. Here are solutions:
Tip dry: use an acrylic retarder. Some brands have a retarder in their proprietary solvent.
Fast dry: same as above, plus watch your dilution ratios and spraying distance. Increasing the relative humidity also helps (I try never to spray below 50% relative humidity—except in the humid summer! [banghead]
Adhesion and lifting under masking: I use Tamiya as a primer. The keys to superior adhesion are CLEANLINESS and CURING. By clean, I mean near surgically clean. I wash the model with Simple Green and water, dry with a clean, lint-free towel, and wipe with ethyl, denatured, or isopropyl (90%) alcohol. Once clean, I never touch the model with my bare hands—not a bad idea for painting, anyway!
By curing, I do not mean dry to touch. Acrylics generally dry to touch very rapidly—but they do not cure, especially with respect to surface adhesion, very rapidly. I wait at least a day before masking, and I prefer to put the model in a food dehydrator for at least an hour after it is dry to the touch. The gentle heat really accelerates the cure. You can do the same with a lamp and a fairly large box. (be careful not to let things get too warm—fire hazard!
Cleanup: I have yet to find an acrylic model paint that will not secumb to Windex, Simple Green, isopropyl (90%) alcohol, or ethyl/denatured alcohol, or a combination thereof. A mixture of Windex and Simple Green is very effective.
Excellent tips, Ross.
One thing I see has been overlooked: most people use Acrylics because of the lack of odor in the house, but STILL WEAR A MASK WHEN SPRAYING. Just becuase you can’t smell it doesn’t mean there aren’t tiny particles waiting to adhere to your lungs and cause fits for you in the future.
I use acrylics, love the water clean up.
I mostly use Testors Model Master Acryl, but also use Tamiya, Vallejo and Games Workshop. As others have mentioned different brands have different characteristics. I find Tamiya covers well in most colors but dries very fast so its hard to do very large surfaces by hand. Vallejo and Games Workshop paints cover better in the harder to cover colors (white, red, & yellow are the worst colors to use in my opinion), I really like the Games Workshop metal colors, much better coverage than any others I’ve used.
Something I’ve found is most hobby shops carry a smaller selection of the MM Acryl paints compared to the MM Enamels. The color range is actually quite large in the Acryl series but you may need to shop online to get the full range.
I’ve found Tower Hobbies to have one of the better selections of acrylic paints
I prefer enamels. I think they spray better and give a smoother finish.
I’d had fits with tip dry using MM Acryl… have had few problems with Tamiya, and none with Polly Scale.
Oddly enough, my Paashe VL is a tip dry monster, my Aztek 370 rarely has problems with it.
Same same here here
Acrylics all the way.
I returned to the hobby about 4 years ago, and started using both Tamiya & Gunze acrylics, having previously used Humbrol enamels.
Both spray beautifully using Tamiya acrylic thinner, I just lay down a base coat of Tamiya Light Grey, both to act as a primer, and a check coat to highlight any imperfections.
Yes, they are more delicate than enamels, but I just apply a coat of Future after each session, which protects the surface, and also leaves it ready for decaling.
I’d never go back to enamels now.
Karl
Thanks, Charles. I weary of being a “safety nazi” [:-,] sometimes! (Yes, I have that reputation, well earned, I think.)[(-D]
And it bears repeating: AN ORGANIC VAPOR RESPRIATOR (NOT A DUST MASK), OR AN EXTERNALLY VENTED SPRAY BOOTH, OR BOTH, ARE ABSOLUTE REQUIREMENTS WHEN WORKING WITH AEROSOLS. Whether they come out of an airbrush or a can.
Your lungs will be better for it. So will your liver and kidneys—Some of those odd chemicals get metabolized. This happens in the liver. Some of the metabolites are more toxic than the originals (the liver is a fairly stupid organ). Some of those that don’t get metabolized do nasty things to your kidneys on the way out, even if they affect nothing else.