Anyone who can give me a few pointers/answer a couple of questions about the new(er) Tamiya Matilda II/IV kit, please private message me. Basically, I’m having issues knowing what to paint which colors, especially with the suspension parts, wheels, and how to mask the camo as in the pic at the top of this page. (Next to FSM logo). Thanks!
Vivian
For masking,I use Tamiya tape.Works great with no bleed.
I have that - several widths, but armor has so many nooks and crannies. How does one mask over all the detail? Also, in the Tamiya instructions there is no indication what color for example the wheels and suspension need to be painted. How does one know?
I would suggest painting everything, including the suspension, in the sand base color first. Then masking off and paint the camo colors lighter to darker, one at a time. Masking off all the detail parts is just a time consuming task, but the results are worth it when completed. Use smaller pieces of the tape for the hard to get areas and larger ones to cover behind them.
What color is the suspension parts and wheels supposed to be? The Tamiya kit instructions don’t specify.
Thanks for the advice.
Paint all the suspension parts in sand. If you want them to appear weathered, I am not sure if the Matilda had steel or rubber rimmed road wheels, try these ideas. If steel, edge them in a semi bright steel color as they would get that way from metal to metal contact with the inner surface of the tracks. If rubber rimmed, use a very dark gray to replicate faded dusty rubber.
Excellent. Thanks. Will do.There are also drive wheels and idler wheels - same thing? (All wheels are steel - no rubber).
Why would the kit instructions say to paint the exhausts in the camo colors but photos included in the kit show the exhausts as some gray-metallic color?
Finally, I can’t see how to mask over detail parts such as spades and other parts on the surface. Will the tape really go into all the crevices??
V
The drive wheel, AKA drive sprocket,is the one with gear teeth. The idler wheel is at the opposite end. Yes, the edges that come in to direct contact with the track should be painted in the same manner. With a hard edge camo, some items like tools may be easier to paint around if they are left off until after the surface beneath has been masked and painted. Cutting the tape into small pieces to get under the edges of cooling louvers and other items that can not be left off till later will help.
There are no hard and fast rules. Depending on the complexity of the paint scheme and whether the presence of small detail items may make painting / masking difficult, you will need to make a judgement call and decide whether to glue the parts on first and paint or paint first and attach the fiddly bits later.
I painted every thing sand then a lot of masking tape…I did have some bleeding under the tape so I retaped and resprayed and did touch up with a fine brush. please check it out.
I also toned down the figures skin but no new images.
Bob
Hey stik, in general, should one prime the entire tank AFTER constructing (without wheels and tracks)? What would be a good primer if I plan to use only Tamiya acrylics? Thx
I am not one for priming kits 99% of the time. Only if I am using resin or brass AM stuff that will look obviously different when it should not from the surrounding plastic will I prime. I usually go straight to a base color once the kit is ready for tracks and road wheels to be put on. Some folks like to use a gray, others black (pre shade) for those who do prime. Sorry I can be more helpful on this point.
See, build it and they will come!![snWcm][t$t]
what do you mean detailfreak?