Advice or questions you have about modeling tools, techniques, and reference materials? Post it here!
Was talking to the son the other night about rear heavy planes that weight the butt down and have the nose pop up when attempting to position the plane on it’s landing gear. He’s working on an A-10 and those two engines just put it over the top.
He does not want to use anything toxic, so I called around and a buddy of mine who owns a general automotive garage explained to me how the industry has moved away from lead wheel weights, harmful cleaners and abrasives to more environmentally friendly products. The solution, a new “sticky wheel weight” that are used on aluminum rims when balancing tires. They come in 0.25oz increments, have a “padded” double sided base that sicks on to the rim. He gave me a couple and my sin put them in and pow (enter '60’s Batman TV balloon art here), it worked!
Called my buddy back and he gave me a strip of 10-15 of them.
These will not work in smaller modals (1/72) without modification with a Dremel or something…
Thought I’d share the idea.
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I have had an issue with my spray painting and need some advice?
I have found when I sprayed the top layer of humbrol acrylic gloss red over my base coat of plastikote enamel gloss white the acrylic had stripped the base coat and I’m unsure why?
How long did you let each coat dry?
Between 24-48 hours, painted on an acrylic humbrol coat but the spray version causes the same crinkle effect
I’m may be wrong, but I believe Humbrol paints are all enamels. Did you thin the Humbrol red with enamel thinner? That would eat the Plastikote enamel white.
Is the Plastikote enamel white intended to be a primer?
I’m still learning myself and don’t know what else to ask, but clearly something in the red is not compatible with the white.
Hope this helps. Sorry.
Cheers,
Mark
No humbrol have an acrylic and enamel range what I’m going to do is strip the paint and start again with acrylic on acrylic
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Spraying acrylic over enamel is a big NO NO. Reason being that enamel paint takes ages to dry out properly although feeling dry to the touch as they leach out into the atmosphere for a long time after application. Acrylic is like spraying a watertight plastic coat over the enamel and the leaching out has to have somewhere to go and eventually bursts through the acrylic. The picture put up shows a classic case of this. But you can paint the other way around as when acrylics dry it is perfectly OK to use enamels on top.
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That’s a great idea! I’ve been using something called “Liquid gravity” which is made from some tiny/heavy non-toxic balls about the size of a big grain of sand that fit anywhere. BUT they are kind of expensive and hard to get. I think I paid $18 for a bottle of them. Granted, they will probably do 10 models for that price so I shouldn’t complain but I kind of like your solution as I’m assuming they are much cheaper.
I just learned something important, thank you.