Future is suppose to be self leveling but I wouldn’t re-brush over the same spot to much if it were me because it dries pretty fast and you could leave brush marks.
Again if it were me I might even put the brummbar aside for now and work on something else of lesser value until I could come up with another AB but that’s just me.
What problems are you having with the air brush? Maybe we can help ya out there.
As Mutt said, you should be fine brush painting future on. Keep the coats thin and give plenty of dry time in between coats, try not to go over the same spot repeatedly during coats or you will soften and work the layer below the one your doing (future as you know is VERY water soluable and the “wet” coat of future your working on could very well soften the one below it that has “dried” already)
It’s a single action AB that runs off a can of propellant. It keeps blocking up, leaking air and makes a TERRIBLE mess-what do you expect for £12!?
The thing is, I love brush painting and have got really good at it of late. I’m going to brush paint the Brummbar and apply Klear by brush too-I think I should be ok.
How many coats of Klear do I need? How long between coats? Can I just do the upper area of the model with Klear-I don’t need to do the running gear and stuff do I?
I’ve got a Paasche AB which my friend has given me. It’s still new-he won it but has never used it. I’ll be buying my compressor in February when I’ve saved up enough money-I know which one I want.
Ouch, sounds like some bad mojo going on there, yikes!
As for where to coat, I think it depends. If you are using Tmiya acrylics then I would simply coat the spot your decals are going down just to kill any silvering. Then you can touch up with some flat. Tamiya acrylics when dried properly are pretty bomb proof, and you can lay down oil/enamel washes and filters with no worries. I can’t speak for Model Master Acrylics as I hardly use them outside of light duty work (for tool handels and such). Going the opposite route you should also have no problems laying down enamels and then washing and filtering with acrylics. If anything I would honestly tell you to brush paint with your favorite brand of semi gloss/satin varnish. I find semi gloss/satin after you have done filters and washes is now dulled enough to not need a flat coating, whereas future will surely mean recoating with a flat or semi gloss layer. Also, I am not too sure how future and acrylic washes and filters are going to mix since with acrylic the thinning method is usually water based. Maybe others can comment on that note.
I’ll be painting it with Humbrol enamels. I want to use the clear to help the decals and to help with my washes and to stop the washed attacking my basecoat.
When the washes are done I’ll give her a good spray of matt dull coat.