Not sure if this has come up before. I know there have many things about re-scribing when a model has raised panels lines. No problems there… sand it down and have a nice smooth surface and off you go. But what about when there are a lot of engraved panels lines that need to be filled and redone? Ever have the problem of scribing over a puttied area and it gouges or breaks?
I am thinking stretched sprue melted into the panel lines with Micro Weld or dissolving some plastic shaving form the same kit in Micro Weld to make a paste sort of and fill the lines. That way all the plastic will be the same so rescribing will go smoothly. What do you think? Or there a much easier way?
Marc, I like the stretched sprue method. It might be more precise to apply. You could maybe feed it through a small puddle of CA and then lay it into the recess.
I use thin CA to fill in my rescribing bo-bos and to fill recessed lines I don’t need. No need to strech sprue unless the engraving is very large. If its large, gap filling CA should work.
CA works very well. I scribed an entire row of lines crooked, I filled them with CA, sanded them smooth, and rescribed perfectly over the lines without breaking the lines.
I had thought about CA but had heard that if left for too long it cured very hard. But just for the ease f it , it is certainly worth a try. Thanks.
Marc,
I tried the stretched sprue and home-made putty techniques, and found I had a problem with voids in the filled area. Hit one while rescribing, and you are back to square one.
I prefer CA for this, because it is much easier to control. However, I don’t use a scribing tool over it. Scribing tools are more like an adz or hoe in terms of material removal, and when they hit something harder or softer than usual, they tend to chatter and chip. What I do is very lightly run a toothed No. 11 blade along the scribing guide. Sometimes I use this tool to do the whole line, sometimes I switch to a regular scriber.
To make the toothed blade, which is not the same as the fine No. 11 sawblades you can buy, you need a motor tool and a thin abrasive cut-off wheel. With the No. 11 blade chucked firmly into the handle, and eye and face protection firmly and properly chucked onto your head, cut the smallest notches you can into the edge of the blade, then run it over a fine sharpening stone to remove the burs.
The JCL micro-saw is supposed to be good for this, too. I have one, but haven’t tried it yet.
Ross you are the man. I just got my JCL saw and I never occurred to me to use that. Good point about the void too. So thanks to all that suggested the CA and good call on the saw.
I corresponded with a Czech modeler a while back and he made a small tool from a piece of the blade that I think will be ideal for this.
I will, however, use the “putty” I made this morning to fill the underside of the wing blisters I have to sand off