this method takes a long time, but works incredibly well… in small quantities
Find an old mouse (comp mouse, not the annoying furry things) and take out the ball. Cut the rubber “sleve” and you are left with a steel “ball bearing.” Soak it in water for about 2-3 weeks, it will rust. then toss into a film can or other similar container. Get an old motor and somehow get it belt-driven. plug in moter. wait about an hour, you will get some EXTEMELY fine rust powder. rub where necisary. realistic because it’s real rust. Have fun and don’t use it if you have a cut in your finger.
HEY,
Taht reminds me, ive heard of just taking like a rust colored paint and adding just a bit of talcum powder or something like it. Not sure if it actually works, but im planning on trying it sometime soon.
This is real rust. If you screw up, you can just wash it away.
for the motor part, attempt to build a stand with something (sheetmetal, lego’s, etc) and then use a rubber band or something to connect the canister to the drive shaft of the motor.
…i agree with dubix but, on a artist’s little pallet where it’d be easier to control the mix of talcum : paint…
didn’t Polly-S & another mfg. produced grime, mud, rust, oily…etc ?
The finer the rust powder, the better it works. Good tip on the “tumbler” method.
If you want to really know how to produce rust weathering talk to a model railroader. They generally know a hundred different ways to produce rust weathering in every concievable “shade” of rust out there. Brand new rust (bright orange) is alot different than old rust (burnt sienna).
I have used poly scale rust. its great for making iron laden mud… It works better if you got like a (nice to mix in red, and a nice a “caboose color orange” to also mix in)it makes it bright…
Real Rust… Real Rust, where have i heard that name before??? [B)] Ohh yeh in Scale Model Railroading… Polly Scale again… [B)]