I think I’ve discovered a modeling first, but having said that, no doubt someone will make a liar of me. I got a small shipment of sheets from Hobbydecal, maker of dry transfers for aircraft models (if you haven’t tried them, you are cheating yourself). First, there was a sheet ALL the panel numbers for an F-15. Now, every panel on this aircraft, even if it’s only two inches by four inches, has a stencil with a number and possibly a letter designating R or L. I swear there must be 400 of these little suckers on there, and I got the 1/32 version. I can’t imagine it in 1/48. But someone out there will spend days putting every one of these things on his Tamiya Eagle. Understand these numbers were not used on later Eagles, but I don’t know. I’ve seen them on the birds, though.
Next is an outstanding collection of stencils and other markings for all versions, available in all scales, of the FW190, including the Doras, and featuring more than just stencils.
But the coup de grace, and a modeling first, I believe, is a sheet with dry transfer markings for an entire airplane, F/A-18F’s of VFA-103 “Jolly Rogers.” It includes the black-and-yellow fuselage stripes with the chevrons, as well as the large death’s heads that go on the vertical tail surfaces. All national markings and stencils are also included.
The reason I say it’s a first is that, because of the nature of making dry transfers, it’s hard to produce good multi-color markings, hence their use on armor or as a/c stencils, of which they are the best that can be had due to their thinness, sharpness, and the fact they can be put over flat surfaces with no silvering. My sample sheet had both 1/72 and 1/48 birds on it. I have no idea who kits the two-seat Super Hornet, however.
Check out the Hobbydecal site at www.hobbydecal.com. They are about to put out stencils for all F-4 versions in all scales, and do the same for the F-15 and A-7. Once you’ve used these things, you’re hooked.
TOM
Tom,
I have never seen dry transfers for plastic models, but they have been used in the Radio Control side of modeling for many years. Most of them are simply numbers and letters, but quite a few are also multi-color graphics.
Darwin, O.F. [alien]
Tom,
A quick question regarding the dry transfers. Do you have to gloss coat prior to putting down the transfers or do they work well on flat finishes? I realize that that the transfers eliminate the “silvering” problem with decals, but don’t know how to place them on the model. How about a quick lesson in dry transfers - you know, step by step for those of us that are learning challenged.
Thanks,
Kurt
Back in the 70’s Letraset had a very extensive line of dry transfers, mostly 1/72 scale. I don’t recall sheets for a complete aircraft, but they did provide individual sheets of National Insignia, Codes, Stencils & Special Markings. It was possible to duplicate just about every Luftwaffe aircraft , for example, by using graphics from 4or 5 sheets.
Dry transfers actually work best on a flat finish, just the opposite of water slide decals. The inks are transfered from the backing sheet by pressure, rubbing them on using a rounded tool. Placement is critical, no second chance once you start the transfer process. They give a great " painted on " look to the model. Biggest problem with the Letraset transfers was shelf life. The inks tended to dry out in a couple of years, making them unuseable, where water slide decals can last for decades if stored properly. I don’t know if the new ones have solved that problem, but I would only buy those you intend to use in the short term & not build up a stash as we modelers tend to do.
Regards, Rick
Hobbydecal’s markings are different from anything that’s come before in many ways. For one thing, the shelf life problem, at least as the company puts it, has been solved. And I have no reason to doubt Mr. Kim, the nice Korean guy who lovingly puts together every sheet using top experts on each type of a/c as consultants, such as Ryan Toews, who consulted on the Zero stencils, and if you want an accurate set of Zero stencils in water slide, good luck finding it.
And Rick is correct, the dry transfers will go right down on flat paint with no silvering, settling down as if they were really stenciled on.
I am, and have been for month and months, putting together a how-to article on dry transfers for a/c models for another modeling magazine. Unfortunately, I got sidetracked when the Spitfish took priority, but I’m going back to the DT piece ASAP. The main problem was I had to do a lot of research I wasn’t expecting, plus do four separate builds to properly show these things off to best advantage. But once you’ve used them, and get used to using them, it’s hard to go back to the old way. I’m doing an F-86 with nothing but dry transfers for the stencils, stripes, and all the other markings, large and small, except the pilot’s personal markings on the fuselage side. Even the tail checkerboard on this Korean War Sabre is being done in dry transfer.
TOM
Does burnishing the transfer mar your paint job at all?