How difficult would it be to back date an E/F skyhawk to a B/C (or Q) skyhawk? I know i have to cut the hump off and put a baby hump back in its place, but what other differences are there? Ive tried looking but photos are few and far between and everything else is all technical stuff. Im more interested in visual differences.
TIA
Mike
The other differences are in the nose profile and the engine intakes. The B/C do not have splitter plates like the later E/F, and the nose of the E/F is bigger and beefier with more electronics. Also the B/C will not have the outer wing hardpoints. There are B/C kits out there so no real reason to do a conversion.
Im doing it because i already have the A-4 kit, but only just recently decided to make in a Falklands Argentinian version (for the GB) They flew B C and Q models. All of which were very similar as far as i know. Thanks for the info stik, any idea where the kits are? (ebay is out of the question, not paying $40+ for shipping)
here you go, you can go here and see the differences between the A-4Q that came from A-4B, and the A-4Q that came from A-4C
http://a4skyhawk.org/2c/productionhistory.htm
if you choose to do a Q based on the C, you might think of the nose as a “slightly shorter E type” without that bottom bulge,a bit harder to do a B nose from the E parts,also for the “Q from C” you’d want that “E-shaped” nose,not the other C nose that looks like it’s held on with 2 “clips” per side
hope this helps
Rex
Thanks Rex. So the A-4Q has the same nose as an A-4E/F? just without that bulge underneath? Easy Fix.
They still had the flush intakes though correct? Slightly harder fix. But doable.
Also removal of the avionics hump. Addition of smaller avionics hump.
Straight refuelling probe.
No drogue chute pod.
Did i miss anything?
if you compare the overall length of the E and the C, you’ll see that you need to cut the nose off, get rid of that bottom bump, and then shorten it just a bit,then fair it into your front fuselage half
there’s a cheat that works for getting rid of the late intake splitter,cut with your razor saw so that you have an intake with no splitter,then use a bit of that center plastic to build your two “glueing lips” thicker by the thickness of the plate you cut off, that should get you really close to the stand off distance that you need from the fuselage to the inner surface of the intake face
I hope you can “see” what I mean
Rex
So if i cut the splitter out rather than off will i still need to bulk it out?
I don’t know which kit you are using,but, if you line up the rear of your intake piece, you should see a gap where the splitter stands off from the fuselage,that thickness needs to be made back up
Im using the Tamiya 72nd kit. Partner bought it with the intention of doing an RNZAF one but she lost interest half way through her first kit (after buying 4 lol) So as long as i get rid of the splitter and then work it flush with the fuselage i should be fine.