Something “easy” to work on while waiting for burn and dry times on another larger project.
A 30+ year old Starter resin kit.
There was a nice defect in the body casting…
After cleaning up the flash the rest of the body isn’t too bad, even if not all that accurate looking.
The chassis was really warped and even with plenty of heat it broke when I was trying to bend it to fit.
No problem, I just sanded the two parts to fit and then cemented them back together so the chassis would fit without being under stress.
The bad spot in the body was repaired. I also had to do some significant shaving of the inner fender wells to keep the wheels from sticking way too far out.
Final undercoat/prime for paint, Intermediate Blue.
Body looks pretty accurate to me.
It “looks” like a Corvette, but it is very inaccurate to both a stock Corvette (which is what the casting is of) and the actual race car it is supposed to be.
I won’t point out the issues, some will see them and it’s better for those who can’t if they don’t know where to look.
Still a fun little side project.
Old Gunze Aqueous acrylic for the color coat. It went on pretty well like the last time I used it, but there were a few small fisheyes on the back (not over the repair). I figured I’d just sand them out. Unfortunately it looked this nasty after drying for 18 hours.
I stripped it and used Navy Blue as the undercoat then reshot it with the Gunze only to have the same thing happen. It was the end of the bottle, maybe it actually went bad?
So I stripped it down to the AS-8 and I mixed TS-55 and TS-44 to make this color.
The wheels are two piece affairs and not only clunky, but very inconsistent and wonky. The tires aren’t that great either…
Yeah I knew it wasn’t accurate to a stock corvette, but I’m not that familiar with the race car. As far as the paint, sure looks like some sort of silicone or oil contamination. Maybe you didn’t get all the release agents off.
If you knew it wasn’t accurate to a stock Corvette why did you say “Body looks pretty accurate to me.” when the race car is based on the stock car?
It looks like a silcone issue, but it isn’t. Assuming they even used silcone during casting, the body was cleaned properly before it was primed and it took all the paint well except the old acrylic.
The same reaction happened twice, even after stripping the first paint job with a chemical many use to eliminate silicone on plastic and resin.
So not a mold release issue; an old paint issue (as I mentioned) most likely. Note that the subsequent Tamiya paint did not have the reaction the Gunze did.
The decals are on. I used the newer Tamiya LP silver for the trim. It brushes very well.
The interior is done. I made a shifter from a pin and added the white ball.
This is looking really good. It’s been a while since I’ve read what stripping agent to use with resin. Whadja use to strip the paint on that?
Thank you.
I tried Super Clean on it. It worked great and left the lacquer base coat in fine shape too.
It only took a few minutes to strip the dried acrylic, I don’t know how long it would take to strip lacquer.
I shot the clear and it took care of the orange peel. I prefer to not rely on clear to fix that, but some projects get different levels of attention…
The glass fits OK for what it is, but certainly not good. I cut out the driver’s window since it seems to be down in all the photos I found.
The PE hangars for the side pipes are poorly rendered and fit even worse, but on par for the era/manufacturer. The pipes themselves are huge!
Looking sharp. Those yellow pipes look great
All done. That was fun. Now back to work on the bigger project.
Kind of like potato chips though, I’m in the mood to build another…
very nice! I want to build a whole bunch of this era GT cars.
Thanks!
That was a grand era, and then there was Can Am…
Good lord. Bite my head off. Just making a general comment that overall it looks good. I don’t know every nuance about the race car. I’ve seen far worse. Believe me ill refrain from commenting on anything you post from now on.