Well let’s see here… what to be most amazed at? Is it the great job you’ve done and your 1st ever 2 tome camo? Is it the nice subtle weathering? Is it the neat little scratch built rack?
Hmmm? I GOT IT!!!
It’s the paint rack built using DADOS for a solid build instead of butt gluing it like me the everyone else[(-D]
Seriously, beautiful work on the Stug.
Thanks Marc I appreciate the encouragement. It has turned out far better than I hoped and I really enjoyed my first attempt at scratch building. What do you mean by using DADOS?
I am at a loss about chipping this one though. I was thinking about a light beige for chipping outlined by a litle rust on deeper ones. Not sure how to chip a cammo paint job yet still researching.
You are a quick study…it seems each of your builds gets better…your learning curve is much shorter than mine!!! As far as the chipping goes, I prefer to use a dark brown rather than orange…most rust on thick steel has a patina over it that varies in color from brown to chocolate brown…I tend to shy away from the orange stuff…
There is a great method of chipping that involves dipping a scotch-brite pad (or something similar) into the color and “bumping” it along the edges you want to be chipped…(sorta like drybrushing)…I tend to use oils, as they are more forgiving if the effect isn’t right…less is more, in my book…then you can go back and touch up with a fine pointed brush with the same color…Another cool effect is to paint small, white chips first, then add the dark brown on top of that…gives it more depth…
Thanks Manny I am trying my best to keep on learning and improving. Your comments mean a lot to me. I captured all the images of your winter wash PZ.IV Diorama and show them to people all the time when they think my stuff is way cool.
Everyone loves your figures here at Microsoft! A lot of guys paint the War hammer stuff and they were blown away by your figures.
I hope you put up a tutorial on Figure painting someday it would be well recieved here that’s for sure.
Just between you and me I think you got ripped off at the IPMS show too. [:D]
I am going to try to mount tracks tonight and then try some of the chipping methods you mentioned.
I have a number of ammo boxes to paint up as well. Should the boxes be a natural wood color or a Geran Field Grey? I am not sure yet.
Edmund–WOWEEE. That is really looking fantastic. I like your build, your paint, and the thoughful way you go about weathering. That scratch rack is very well done, too.
How about a wip or some plans for those nice paint racks? My workbench looks like chimps were going through my stuff, looking for something.
I do love the build, but selfishness makes me ask.
Bill
Thanks Bill I am glad you like it!
The shelves were really simple. I picked up some MDF from Lowes for about $15.00 dollars and pulled out the table saw. I didn’t want to waste anytime on anything fancy. THe first time I spilled paint on it I would be sad so MDF is the ticket. I measured and then lowered the depth of the blade and cut a channel about a third of the way through on each vertical piece. I then used my Passlode nail gun and fired a couple nails on each side and I was done. I could of used white glue but I didn’t want to waste time and have to pull out my clamps.
Hope that helps.
Looking great Schnobs! I’ve been following along silently on the side gaining as much knowledge (or more) as you’ve been progressing along and have really enjoyed this WIP thread. Keep up the great work, it’s coming together great!
Oh btw…regarding wingnut’s earlier comment and your confusion over “Dado’s”…
The answer lies in your description of how you built your paint rack: “.…cut a channel about a third of the way through on each vertical piece…” You just described how to install a shelf using a Dado joint. A superior joint for this application IMO…good job there too.
Looking forward to your next installments
Cheers
Thanks Brad it’s always nice to hear that my postings are appreciated. Sometimes I feel like I am talking to myself! [swg]
Yes that clears up the confusion I knew what a Dado joint was but somehow when he capitalized it I thought it was one more modeling or weathering technique I had to learn! [%-)]
Build Update:
Current Assembly and Dissassembly Time: 29 hours
Current Painting Time: 17 Hours
Weathering Time: 16 Hours
Aggregate Build Time: 62 Hours
I attempted to chip with Karl’s foam method with mixed results. I am sure it was just my inexperience but I feel more comfortable chipping with a brush.
I then started applying various MIG pigments to the upper hull:
Here is a few pics of current progress:
A few shots in the Plunkinator:
I plan to get tracks on this puppy tonight and tomorrow. I have quite a lot of stowage to paint up. I have ammo boxes and plan to have a box broke open with a few loose shells in the stowage area so any tips on how to paint the correctly so I don’t get spanked after the fact would be appreciated! [banghead]
I also plan to add some MIG Russian Earth and dark and light mud to the tracks.
I took my first base and changed out the nameplate and I plan to add rocks and static grass
I did not glue the nameplate down yet so please provide opinions whether it should stay on or not.
Thanks again for everyone’s support and guidance it is appreciated!
OK, man I gotta say that is a fine pice of work, really nice!!
Thanks Bubba!
I can’t wait to get home and start on the tracks. I am as excited as a Kid! Oh that’s right you are a kid so like you! [swg]
Seriously, I appreciate it Jim. I still cannot believe I haven’t messed up my first cammo build but it’s still early!
Looking good Edmund, looking forward to the next update with the shoes on! [;)]
Wow, I came in late on this WIP. Will have to find time to sit and read the first 6 pages, but I’ll say now that you’ve done a fine job.
Don
Hi Don! Love your Avatar. Sgt. Shultz was awesome! Well you better catch up on your reading because I have a lot to add! [:)]
Build Update:
Current Assembly and Dissassembly Time: 32 hours
Current Painting Time: 20 Hours
Weathering Time: 22 Hours
Aggregate Build Time: 74 Hours
Well Bill you would of been proud I added a prep step to the Magic Track assembly and sanded the ejection marks off of 188 individual links I went with 94 on each side and with the sag it went well.
I also waited 1.5 hours after putting on the glue before I started painting the tracks. The tracks set up better than waiting an hour and were easier to thread through the road wheel. While wating for each track run to set I started on the ammo crate painting and weathering. I used Model Master Acryl Wood with a oil burnt umber wash. I also tried a wash of MM Acryl Leather and liked that look as well. It added tonality to the crates so so they all didn’t look the same.
I went to the LHS store and purchased some more MM Metalizer paints because I have been really happy with the results. I picked up a non-buffing steel, another non-buffing gun metal, a non-buffing brass for the shells, and an Exhaust buffing metalizer. Apparently the State of California thinks they cause birth defects but I should be safe!
I also painted up various shells and did try to follow what references I could fine. I am sure I will get the proper coloring and feedback on this post so I can improve for next time. I am counting on it!!
I have various ideals for the rear stowage rack area that also include a split box spilling shells out. I have pics of my first ideal let me now what you think. I will need to add more pigments once I pull that trigger.
I do want to note I am having a (*^$@#(@ blast doing this!! [(-D]
I will let the tracks set up over night and push on tomorrow.
Thanks for reading!
Edmund,
You’ve discovered the wonderful world of MM metalizers, they are great stuff! As for the state of California warning, that’s because these are lacquer-based paints and as a result are pretty powerful fume wise. I always wear a breather mask when working with them either by airbrush or for an extended period of time brush painting.
The shells look gorgeous! Are you going to be using the figures in a loading scenario? That might be a better way to show some open boxes vs. the damaged/open crate idea. Live rounds wouldn’t have been allowed to stay loose/scattered across the engine deck so would suggest rethinking that angle depending on your intentions for the dio setting. [;)]
You’re doing a great job on that Stu Schnobs.[tup]
Been meaning to get some of those MM colors but every time I place an order I forget.[D)]
Tony the Mutt
Schultz and I: … living in a constant state of confusion … [:D]
And hey, I’m trying my best to catch up but you keep adding more… well OK, who’s complaining.
Don
Hey Bill you are the first man that has said I have a gorgeous anything! [(-D]
I spent hours filling ejection marks on the ammo crates and sanding the seams of each individual shell knowing that I missed one your eagle eyes would catch it. After final inspection I did see I did miss a couple seams! [%-)]
I really like the metalizer products they are top notch!
Yes I will attempt a loading scenario because I can hear the little dismembered fellows calling to me from the Kit box! I admit I am a little intimiated but I have to start soon. I have some mud to apply and a few more details on the Stug and base and then it’s Figure Painting Time!
Question: What is customary in this situation? Should I move the post to the Diorama and Figure section or do it all here as one post? I do not want to go against the grain or offend anyone.
Thanks again for your support and constructive feedback Bill!
Edmund,
It’s really up to you…if you post a thread over in the Dio forum you’ll get a lot of helpful advice from the guys there who really know their stuff. It’s not a requirement though to move it over unless you want to. [;)]
Thanks Tony I am trying! Once you start using them you won’t go back. I started using them once I read some of Bill’s build posts and haven’t looked back.
Build Update:
Current Assembly and Dissassembly Time: 32 hours
Current Painting Time: 20 Hours
Weathering Time: 23 Hours
Aggregate Build Time: 75 Hours
Well I think I might hit 80 hours on the vehicle build alone. I decided to redo the right rear tow eye since I had made a damaged one and didn’t like how it looked. I also added the last tools and soe additional light weathering.
I took some shots outside and in the Plunkinator before I start adding some dried mud to the lower hull and tracks. I should be able to get to that later tonight or tomorrow.
Outside Pics:
Plunkinator Pics:
