29 Ford Rat Roaster pickup

Building up the radiator and shroud.




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I used .20 ps for the shroud. Marked, drilled and then reamed with an RC polycarbonate reaming tool to 10". Easily one of a scratch builders best friends for making large holes.



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We’re getting somewhere now. The artillery wheels fit and look much better.


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She’s as low as I can get her with my final iteration of suspension. I went with the straight axle and su**cide mounted spring and perch. I started on clearancing the firewall, which may be scraped for a scratch built one. All that’s left before paint is a cross member for the trans, rear radius rods, and finishing the floor and trans tunnel. Almost there!


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I love where this is going. I’m very interested in the 3d printed stuff you are using. Are these items that you’ve designed yourself, purchased files and self print, or bought as finished products? I’m asking because this is exactly the kind of stuff I want to do with my printer. Any additional info about your process and techniques would be appreciated.

And I know it’s probably a typo in your title, but I kind of like the idea of a Rat Roaster, versus a Roadster. :grin:

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I have a printer, myself, but these were all purchased products as I have not been able to acquire the STL’s. The wheels and tires are from Iceman Collections, the Ardun Flathead and finned drum brakes are from MCV Products. The rear quick change is a resin reproduction I found on ebay a few years back.

The title is actually correct. If it were a “roadster” it wouldn’t have a top. My next one will be the roadster body with the same mods to match the style. It’s technically not a rat rod, either. That’s why I called it the Rat Roaster, instead.

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Saw this one in the What’s on Your Bench thread and had to jump in here to comment on your project Dan. Love the whole set up with all of the “goodies” that you have packed into this.

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Thanks man. Can you tell that I am enjoying this one?

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Heres where I stopped last night. I got the floor, firewall, and transmission crossmember squared away. Now I can make the trans tunnel and bring the steering column up.





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It does look like you’re having a good time with it.
Great work so far and paying attention to things like steering wheel to seat clearance. Good plan out.

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Thanks, man. And yep, no stone left unturned. Every detail is important imho. I’ll eventually do all the fuel and brake plumbing as well as ignition and hopefully room for an oil canister.

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Wow this thing is looking very cool! Great stance - fun watching this come together. Thoughts on color?

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Yep, I think I have decided on a USAAF sea blue in satin, gloss maroon wheels, and the chassis and suspension will be gloss black.

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Making some more progress. I built a battery box for an old 6v I found. Drilled out the posts and added craft wire that perfectly fits the terminals. The body work was mostly completed, so I made some wood panelling from 5mm strip while waiting for the filler to set up and started the trans tunnel. I sculpted the bell housing area from epoxy putty and then heat formed .20 styrene for the driveshaft tunnel. Some filler work added to the floor as well as some strips to close up the body gaps.

As far as paint goes, I went from a USAAF Dark Sea Blue to an RLM 76 Lichtblau paint to help show off the details and still have that vintage inspired paint. I sprayed the bomber seats in Revell chrome to look like polished aluminum. I might knock down the shine with satin top coat…even though, I do love the shine. The chassis and engine are clad in gloss black. I will need to do a little wet sanding to clean up some of orange peel before a final gloss seal. The wheels are sprayed Tamiya dull red laquer sealed with gloss top coat. Much more to come soon








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I haven’t posted in a few days as I have been busy with life… but I have been getting a little time in here and there. I got the floor about 95% some more filling and maybe an epoxy shift boot. When shaping the tunnel out of epoxy, I didn’t realize the shift mount added 1.5 mm in height at the base, whoops. I had to file the excess from the hole until it cleared and the floor sat flat on the chassis. I need to add another strip under the floor to close the rest of the door gap, but my new problem is the floor is already extremely tight fitting after adding the one strip to each side. I might just have to leave it as is and go with it. I also got the rest of the engine parts painted up and assembled. I am going to have to source a 6v starter. The 3d engine came with a 6v generator and a 12v starter… make that one make sense.





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Getting some work done of the final detail parts. Threw in some PBP headlights and late model pulleys. I made some door cards and painted them to match the seat pads. I am trying to decide on ignition wire colors. I don’t want to use black… too dark, and if I go with a bright color, it may draw your eyes away from the rest. I might need to get some more gray.

I am nearing the end, finally.


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Those seats look awesome!

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This is a very interesting build. From the tires, to the simulated wood planks in the bed. I really like all the 3-D printed items that you’ve incorporated in the build to. I’m excited for the next update.

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Thanks gents. Glad I could pique your interest. There’s no cutting corners on the details. I am adding as much as I can that will be seen. I need to figure out a fuel tank, but other than that, I have about everything checked off the list. I should have the floor finished and painted along with the cab tonight, I hope.

I caved and had to finish closing in the floor to the door opening. I solved the issue of it getting stuck by rounding off the floor corners which also helped in fitting and locating. So I solved two problems with one solution. I think I am ready to finish paint work now.