This is a Vroom brand 1/43rd resin kit. The body is pretty thin and feels a bit delicate and somewhat brittle. Overall it’s a good casting with moderate to mild surface texture and has that aromatic smell that some people hate. (It sparks fond memories for me.)
The flash in the windows is not even paper thin on the left, but heavier on the right side so that will have to be addressed when fitting the glass.
There is also a fissure along the right front fender by the louvers, (most likely from a worn or cracked mold). It may sand out, but it could need filler to retain the shape of the nicely rendered body.
There were several skinned over holes on the bottom of the body. Rather than risk them being an issue later I “popped” them, shaved out the edges and filled the holes with CA.
A coat of primer just on the bottom shows those issues are close to fully fixed and I will move onto cleaning up the top sides of the body. It also shows another one of those fissures in the right side rocker…
I’m watching this one.
Turns out this resin actually is quite nice to work with; not as brittle as it first seemed. It is relatively hard, but it takes scribing well.
I had to remove a good amount of material from the insides of the right window area to get the windows the fit properly.
All the panel lines, louvers and trim were scribed in. The little fissures were sanded out with no need for filler. I also drilled holes for the wipers and the filler caps.
One of the caps is missing from the kit parts, but I have an extra from the TR250 I just finished that will fit perfectly.
The B pillar was so thin on the left side that the louvers became open when I cleaned them up. I put a piece of thin Tamiya tape on the inside to close them.
The windows were vacuum formed as one piece. I cut the rear window off and was able to make the sides and windshield fit as one piece. The four headlight covers are molded in the piece on the right. 
The headlight covers are less than a quarter inch at the largest point, the driving lights are less than a tenth of an inch. 
The kit comes with these nice preassembled wheels and tires. Unfortunately two are missing the knock-offs…
Looks like I got lucky; after some searching I found a pair of Precision Miniatures Ferrari Lusso knock-offs I can donate to replace the missing ones.
After a day of chasing tiny pinholes I primed the body for the yellow with a nice even coat of white. There’s a better than 50/50 chance that most of the pinholes would be filled in by the paint, but it wasn’t worth the gamble.
I decanted and airbrushed Tamiya TS-47 Chrome yellow for the color. I built it up in four light coats spanning two days to get an even but not heavy finish. I’m not worried about the orange peel on the left front fender; it looks worse than it really is, and it will get cut and buffed before clear coating.
The interior is fairly simple. The seats are molded to the chassis. I used some old Testors for the blue on the seats. The shifter is a straight pin cut down to fit; provided by the kit.
The dash has some nicely molded in detail, so I hand painted it with silver and gray and used clear gloss for the gauge faces. I didn’t see the need to make gauge decals since visibility is limited through the windows. Getting the dash to line up with the windshield opening was fun. A tiny drop of 5 minute epoxy was used to tack it into place while the body was on the chassis so I could slide it around until it was properly positioned. Then it was reinforced with CA after it was dry enough to remove.
I did the wood grain on the steering wheel a bit heavy to show up through the windows when it is assembled.
I started doing the chrome trim. I blacked out around the windshield and rear window to look like the rubber seals. As you can see the front fender no longer has orange peel…
The headlights are Mylar backed lenses. The pressure sensitive glue had lost its stickiness so I cemented them in. I had masked off the hood scoop opening with liquid mask before painting the yellow to retain some detail.
I installed the clear headlight covers too. The recess they fit into is about as deep as the covers are thick. Installing them after clear coating would make them not fit flush at all. Hopefully the clear will help make them flow with the body even more.
Well that’s unfortunate… If only I knew someone who could make replacements…
You could try scanning the remaining decals and print them on fresh decal paper. Or, maybe paint the survivors with decal film before you get them wet. Or both!
Hi;
Well, now that’s a beautiful YELLOW Ferarri! Nice to see one in any other color than RED. As to your decals. Get a sheet of white Decal paper, Cut your squares or circles then Use Letra-Set or any other brand of rub on letters and numbers for the rest. One coat of clear and “Bob’s yer Uncle”.
Besides being a great color, You are doing a Bang Up Job. Excellent Work! If it were me I would try to use .010 Sheet Clear for your windows. You did a nice job on the interior too! What Scale is this may I ask? Oh, I would kill for wire wheels like that in 1/25 scale for my special American Rides!
The reason for the last statement. The only way to get really good wires is to make MY own. The molded ones have Wires that are Way to Thick!
Thanks for the tips guys. I was being facetious about replacing the decals.
You may notice my avatar and screen name?
My real job is running Scale-Master Decals.
I’ve already drawn up new ones and printed a set.
The windows are about .005 thick (thin) and are vacuum formed to fit so no need to do extra work with heavier flat material.
It’s 1/43rd scale so it’s about 3 1/2 inches long. If you take a look at the earlier posts on this page you’ll see more detailed answers to your questions.
I drew up new artwork and printed a set of the 24 w/roundels.
I had hoped that sealing the Ecurie Francorchamps fender scripts in clear would make them usable, but no such luck. They disintegrated too as soon as they made it to the body.
So I drew and printed new ones of those too. At least the Ferrari badge I cleared as heavy as if it was a cloisonné survived the application.
Nicely cut decals and flawless paint work…and in yellow. Wow!!!
Thanks!
The body has been clear coated. I used urethane thinned almost double the usual amount to compensate for the extra dry and warm weather.
Looking great. I’d like to build the 330 P4. I think Fujimi makes a 330. Looking forward to seeing this completed.
Thanks! I think I have a 330 in this small scale too, maybe more than one…
After I cut and buffed the clear I mounted the body to the rest of the underpinnings. Despite all my test fitting during the early stages it took the better part of an hour to get the chassis and interior parts to fit all the way inside the body and the wheels to be in their proper places. But it was worth it… The vents have been shaded and the filler caps installed.
