Of course you ask the one question most difficult for me to answer [;)] I have the bad habit of not writing anything down while painting, so remembering my color mixes is definitely a task. Here is what I can remember by type of paint and color:
Entire model was primed with testors white spray primer.
Face: Base Coat - was 5:1 mix of Accent country colors medium flesh, and liquitex burnt sienna. Washed face with a 10 or 15:1 mix of water to liquitex burnt sienna ( gave it a nice glow). original base coat mix plus 1 part liquitex raw umber. Deep shadows 1 part liquitex burnt umber + a touch of original base coat.
Camouflage smock and helmet cover: first established a tri-color base scheme with tamiya olive green, tamiya red brown, and 3:1 tamiya olive green + tamiya yellow (light olive). Mottling was accomplished by using the olive green, light olive green, and either tamiya desert yellow or dark yellow, I cant remember which. Shadows were accomplished with a very thin dark grey wash. Highlights were first Tamiya Khaki followed by Tamiya Buff.
Trousers, jacket and helmet: Base coat was Tamiya field grey. highlights were field gray plus tamiya dark sea grey 3:1 I think. Final highlight, last highlight plus a touch of white (just enough to lighten the color noticeably). Shading was accomplished by mixing field gray and a touch of tamiya blue. Deep shadows field gray and tamiya royal blue.
leather items: H-Harness and belt base coat were 3 parts liquitiex mars black and 1 part liquitex blue. Shadows are pure black, highlights are 1 part black + 1 part blue plus then + a touch of liquitex violet. boots were base coated in Poly-S Night Black followed by highlights given before. Brown leather items, such as the chin strap, were base coated in burnt umber, then highlighted with raw umber, then a mix of raw umber burnt sienna 2:1.
canteen, butt-pack, magazine carriers: Base coat was a light olive green (olive green + yellow 3:1), shadows were olive green, highlights were khaki, followed by a lighter olive green, 1 part olive green to 1 part yellow, final highlights were Tamiya Buff (gives them a kinda worn appearance)
gas mask carrier: Base coat Tamiya RLM 2 Gray. Shadows were RLM2 Gray plus black (applied as Wash), highlights dark sea gray, final highlights very light dry brushing of tamiya aluminum.
mess kit: base coat of field gray, shadows field gray plus tamiya sea blue 1:1. Highlights tamiya dark sea gray plus field gray. Final highlight, very light drybrushing of tamiya aluminum.
canvas straps: were base coated in tamiya buff, shadows were tamiya khaki, highlights were tamiya deck tan.
Weapon: Blue black 2parts liquitex black to 1 part liquitex blue blue, shadows were a black wash. Highlights are pencil graphite rubbed on the weapon with my finger.
Outlining: On canvas smock and helmet cover: liquitex burnt umber. On trowsers and field blouse tamiya sea blue plus liquitex black.
toning wash: knee caps and below - Winsor and Newton burnt umber oil.
list of paints used:
Liquitex: Raw umber, burnt umber, burnt sienna, mars black, violet, light blue violet, white.
Tamiya: Buff, Khaki, Red Brown, Royal Blue, Sea Blue, Field gray, olive green, dark sea gray, yellow, blue, aluminum, deck tan.
poly-s: Night black
accent country colors: Medium flesh.
I think that’s about it. Now dont quote me on the color mixes and ratios, those are to the best of my recollection. For me, its a matter of messing around with different colors and proportions until I find the right shade or color. You are probably chuckling about the craft store paint, such as accent country color. The truth is, when I first started painting figures, (starving college student painting WH40K stuff) they were all I could afford. Personally, liquitex is my favorite acrylic because of the pigment consistency and its what I am familiar with. That, and the fact they last forever. I am considering trying the andrea colors becuase I have heard nothing but rave reviews. I guess the moral of the story is use whatever you like, but you dont have to break the bank to get results. Hope this helps and cant wait to see how your figures turn out. Shoot me a line if you need anything else.
