I’ve begun my clipper build of the Donald McKay…the fourth in a quartet of clippers and medium clippers ordered by James Baines of the Black Ball line of fast Packets, built by Donald McKay of Boston. As is my fashion…I wanted to build her in a situation that would have been typical for open ocean commercial ships of the time…and I wanted to exhibit the raw power of the Sea and the toil it brought the captains and men who braved the enormous sea…under extremely dangerous conditions. Most water modeling is done in placid to light seas…I wanted extreme…and I wanted to display my model(as I do) not just on a pedestalled display stand…but to draw the viewer in to the power of the event and(If possible) relay the lore and adventure of a time long gone.
I can easily remove the model from the sea base so as to work upon it and when the hull is finished…I will return her and glue her fast and finish off the water hull interface and details.
This image simply shows the water just after painting…but much is left to do and much more detail to be added…along with clear coating.
Now onto the mods to the Revell Cutty Sark hull to convert her and then to the scratch build of the Clipper Donald McKay.
Rob
Pretty stunning.
One thing though, she looks to be sailing straight and level and we know that’s wrong. Hard to tell without her masts but I would definitely put her on a tack. Up or down at the bow depends on your choice.
Rob
Would you share with us the make up and material of your ocean base, it’s very impressive. I look forward to this models completion.
Thanks for commenting…actually she is listing to port 5deg and is as a 28deg rise at the head…she is climbing out of a huge trough. I’m using forced perspective on this build to elude to a much bigger ocean then is actually present.
Rob
Notice in this painting of the Cutty Sark that she is right and she is plummeting down a wave crest into the trough…and one time or another the ship will become right, even in a heavy sea. She is running free with the wind behind her…my build of the McKay will have her yard canted closed hauled and she will be extremely short sailed…probably only lower top sails and for topmast stay sail.
Yes thunder…I first build a box…then set the model within and set the angles…then I used spray foam and filled the entire box…noting that there is 30% expansion when cured. I then cut the waves in after I had removed the model(I used plastic wrap as a separator on the hull. I then removed the plastic and then masked off the hull where the water would come in contact. I replaced the model into the prepared foam and then trawled Dental stone over the foam being careful to create realistic wave crests and to prevent spatula marks from being left. I made sure that the plaster did not go too high on the hull to lock the hull in. Once dried, I removed the model and then painted the waves using acrylic paints. Start from the top of the wave(Lightest to darkest)…then finalized with break water and foam.
To finish off I added apple wood to the base. I have more sanding and staining to do on the wood and a light coat of satin finish. A name plate will be fashioned later as well.
Foam core for this size of a sea is a must…it keeps weight down and prevents cracks.
I think it is getting there and I am well pleased with the final result.
Thanks for looking and commenting.
Rob
I think this image is better…showing the entire water and hull.
Rob
Just looking at that painting of the Cutty Sark made me seasick! Now where did I put that Dramamine?[:D]
Rob
Thanks for the building tips, I use pink foam for my “bases” never thought to use expanding foam for the waves, you have a great idea!
Thanks again for the help.
Mike
It permits you to go above the edge of the sea diorama and below. Plus you can cut it so nicely into great troughs. Just remember it expands so secure your model well, or compensate for the expansion.
Thanks.
Rob
Worked on the McKay and finished the decks and painted her black.
Another angle, a bit closer to show main cabin.
Another angle from the bow…painting the yellow metal sheathing will be next.
I temporarily placed her back into her sea…to check on alignments and how far I need to paint the bottom.
Rob
This is turning out great, hope you’ll keep posting!
Mike
Thanks Mike…water has never been a strong modeling media for me…but after plenty of study…I think I got it. It looks active…yet not over done or cheesy.
Rob
It’s good that you can use the base as a temporary support.
This, because things like footropes will hang plumb, and not straight down and away from the yards and like.
if you make up coils of line to put over the pin rails, the ones on the high side will hang out away from the side.
Annealed steel wire can be your very great friend here.
I really like this! You did an awesome job on the water. I’ve never had the courage to do a water diorama like this, but with your tips I may try it. Definitely gonna follow this thread.
Chris
This build will require some different approaches to free hanging gear…to increase the motion aspect of the lines and stowage…especially sails and their gear. Using the base as a temporary stand is good…cut I can remove the ship and place it on the bench for the real touchy work…that requires up close work.
Rob
