I work with 1/72 scale modeling armor, figures, planes etc… I have been modeling for over 10yrs, and to this day the one thing i dread more than anything is opening up a new kit and seeing the dreaded plastic tracks!
Now my question is two parts.
1.) How do you all secure the plastic tracks together? I know they show heating up a flat head screw driver pressing it together and melting it. Dont like that method and always seems to make the track crooked and looks terriable. Not to mention if any little extra stress is placed on the track it rips apart. I have always used individual track links when i can or get some for the particular model. When i have had to use the plastic rubbery mess i have learned to use a small stapler and paint over the staple, isnt the best option but works as long as you hide the staple on the top of the track where most wont see it.
2.) Does anyone know of a company that makes metal tracks for 1/72 scale armor? Or individual tracks for that matter?
Just wanting some ideas and thoughts on the subject thanks.
Wana know the honest truth for me? If it is going to be seen, like as a show piece without a base, then try super glue once you get it in position.
If NOT like it has a base it cant be removed from, or its just for you… hell, I have used stapels in the past and they work fine, just keep them in a place, like the bottom, where they wont be seen.
Regardless of how you connect the tracks plan on strategically hiding the joint on the base or tank. German skirt armor or modern AFV’s with side armor makes this easy. The rest require a bit more imagination.
Last spring I hid the fact my Tamiya 1/48 scale Sherman was missing a sprue that had 1/2 the tracks, boggies and light guards! ‘Thin Ice’ was the resulting vignette and basically 1/2 the tank was modeled ‘broken through’ ice.
Another twist came up when I was 1 track link short on the complete side! A oil can and extra gear was placed to hide the missing link to look like it had been recently off loaded and placed there.
I totally agree with hiding your connection or shortness of tracks. My problem with that is I’m to much of a perfectionist LOL. I know a track is missing or something may not be mounted the way it should be, eventhough no one else will know or even see it.
My other problem is i do a lot of wargaming. So, most of my piecese not all of them are used for wargaming. Now its nice to have great looking units, but you dont want anyone touching them due to the event of breaking something on them. So, for me its a fine line between a model looking great and not being able to use it for wargaming. Or having a moderately nice looking unit, but unable to use it on the gaming table.
But thanks for all the information. I went out and bought some liquid nail going to try it with some scrap tracks to see how well they stand up.
I share your grief about the crappy 1/72 tracks that shame Dragon’s otherwise wonderfully-presented armor models. I honestly thought about selling off my entire collection, so disgusted with the lack of indy-links am I.
I hate to say it, but sometimes the best option is to get another Revell kit that has the individual link tracks and use those. Especially for any vehicle that you want to model with realistic sag.
I really hate that Dragon/DML use those rubber bands! [:@]
With rubber band tracks (not Dragon DS) I cut the join connectors off and sew the ends together with black thread. I then ensure the join is placed under a road wheel. With weathering, the join is all but invisible.
Just did an airfix 1/76th scale WWI female tank. UGH the tracks are horrible. There rubber band, very little detail, NO detail on the sides and the sides show too…
