Looking great Mike!! I had the same issue with the spinner decal on my 1/32 109G-6. I couldnt for the life of me get the darn thing to lay down properly. Finally after a couple of coats of decal solvent and coating with clear it finally smoothed out.
I posted the tip on a FB group I just joined and the only comment so far has been “Micro Krystal Klear”. I would use it if I had it lol. Here I am being all helpful and stuff and somebody just has to be a smart guy lol.
Micro krystal klear is not the only answer to this problem. I could have gone with some clear sprue, but this is something I’ve not heard of, nor tried before and I’d like to share how it works.
Just more proof that there is more than one way to do anything. 
Ah well, that’s nothing new as far as FB goes. Hard to tell how someone has toned their statement just by reading it. Its probably not meant to be sarcastic, but how am I to know?
I may not be part of that group for long. Hard to say so far.
Bish- YOU haven’t done a spinner decal before?? Be prepared for a bit of frustration. They don’t want to lay down easy at all lol. If it were not for the liquid cement trick I’d have painted it solid and just moved on. Normally it only takes a couple of swipes to get anything to lay flat. 
Best solution to the problem that I’ve read about so far has been to use the decal as a mask and just paint it on.
jelliott- I only possess some Testors decal set at this time. Wish I still had my Set and Sol still. Those always worked well.
I know, hard to believe with all the German subject I do. I was going to do one on the big 1/18th engine I recently finished, but after trying to mask for 30mins, I didn’t have a decal for it, I gave up and went with the same spinner you did on your 72nd build. But I will have to before long.
Speaking of spinner spirals, Eduard has a nice set of spiral masks of all shapes, sizes, and scales. They work awesome. Just burnish them down real well. Not saying you have to use them, but another option in case you all didn’t know.
ye, I have seen those. Unfortunately they don’t seem to do them in 72nd any more.
If you have the talent you can try it with a brush while the spinner is on a toothpick. I tried it once a long time ago with fair results. Not good enough though.
My friend Ted was not wrong when he said it would take a long time to dry. I waited an hour, then two, then four, and then finally waited overnight. But the results are actually pretty good in my opinion.
(http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DJMikeOz/media/DSCN1214.jpg.html)]
To pass some time I made a cannon barrel for the nose. Good ol’ toothpick for the win here. I tried using some sprue for this but it would get hot and them bend on me long before I whittled it down enough. The toothpick worked great.
(http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DJMikeOz/media/DSCN1215.jpg.html)]
(http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DJMikeOz/media/DSCN1217.jpg.html)]
(http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DJMikeOz/media/DSCN1218.jpg.html)]
And that worked out really well after I painted it.
(http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DJMikeOz/media/DSCN1219.jpg.html)]
This morning I sanded and polished the marker lights.
(http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DJMikeOz/media/DSCN1220.jpg.html)]
And finished up the landing gear. Even though the wheels came in halves they still flattened perfectly. A Bic lighter and a desktop was all I needed.
(http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DJMikeOz/media/DSCN1221.jpg.html)]
(http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DJMikeOz/media/DSCN1223.jpg.html)]
And I’m sittin’ pretty lol.
I did more work on the landing struts and installed some tiny brake lines.
Thanks for looking.
Man you aint a woofin’ there!!! I’ve done 3 decal spinners and use between 7 and 10 applications of Microsol every time!!! Whew!!! The results are worth it but it makes you sweat the whole time while waiting on the decal to dry
Great work on the 109 there Mike! I like that position light method you are doing. Will have to adopt that one!
That’s looking quite NOICE!!!
My friend Ted on Genessis used this trick for his landing light on an old Frog P-38 he’s working on. Its an old, dog of a kit, but he’s a very talented modeller and I’m expecting to see something great come out of it. He’s pretty reliable in that way lol. Use this trick to your heart’s content Mustang. It’s not as clear as using clear sprue, but for tiny fiddly things like the lights on the wing tips, it does make things a bit simpler. This method would work best if you had constructed the lights internal parts such as Ted’s landing light.
Darren - Thank YOU. 
Just a minor update. I’ve got the landing struts glued on and the tiny bits and bobs attached. Once all of this cures I’ll be shooting her with primer. The spinner, wheels, and drop tank will be left off and painted separately.
Painting time is very soon. [smile]
I do like those landing lights. You mentioned you use a gel. I may have missed it, if so sorry for asking to repeat yourself, but what sort of gel do you mean.
Just the gel type super glue. Nothing fancy at all. Until this application I found myself wishing I had bought the liquid type.
I hope this helps. I think the brand is Krazy Glue, but I’m pretty positive that doesn’t matter.
Ok, I know the sort of thing you mean. thanks.
Okay, this will be my last update while this primer cures for a few days. I’ve got to finish up the M-103.
The panel lines turned out great as well.
Thanks for looking guys. Your support means a lot to me.
Lookin’ great so far Mike!!! [Y]
ye, looks nice. Looking forward to seeing the paint go on.
Thank you. I do try lol.
After the M-103. Yes sir!
Excellent work so far! You really nailed that spinner and prop!