Here’s one I’ve always wanted to have a go at and I have been given the opportunity to do it. The British ground attack machine Typhoon MK. Ib, affectionately dubbed “The Tiffie”, which was Hawker’s replacement for the aging Hurricane. I’ve always called it the flying Large Mouth Bass, thanks to the huge radiator intake for that 2000 horsepower Napier engine. It apparently wasn’t the most reliable bird, but when working properly, it was capable of well over 400 mph and was one of the only planes that could catch the FW 190 at low level. This thing packed some serious punch with 4 20 mm cannons and RP3 rockets and or bombs to absolutely shred tank columns. Here’s my typical mental vision of the Tiffie pouncing on the unsuspecting Wehrmacht…awesome!
I will be building the Hasegawa kit with the teardrop canopy. The only request was that it have full invasion stripes. I will add Ultracast wheels and seat. I ordered a Montex decal/mask set as well. It will be my first use of that product.
I started with the cockpit. My research said these could be either RAF interior green or black for a late model version. The stock pit is very nice. I still had some cockpit green paint mixed up from the Spit and 'Cane so I went with that. I added the Ultracast seat which improves things considerably.
I’ve been trying to find ways to improve my instrument panels. The kit decal just doesn’t cut it for me as it sometimes moves on me. I recently bought some Airscale dial decals which are individual dial decals designed to be added one at a time. After a silver drybrush, I did just that one dial at a time snuggled in with Microsol. Once dry, I used a drop of epoxy to simulate glass lenses. I’m happy with the results.
The dreaded Hasegawa plugs reared their ugly head. This time its the top fuselage at the cockpit. The fit was poor of course and what do you know, they don’t fall on panel lines.
I taped off the area to protect the panel lines and started sanding.
Eventually I got them looking respectable.
The cockpit and radiator were added to the starboard side…no issues.
I should have know these would bite me again. I closed the fuselage and found gaps at the plugs…just like my P-40. I truly hate Hasegawa and their plugs. I see styrene strip and Tenax in my near future.
Here I’ve test fitted things and it seens this one will be void the Hasegawa wing root gaps. By the way, this is how I deal with them. Works great.
I’ve never have had a problem with Montex masks. They work just as good as a Eduard mask. One to watch out, their made of electrical black tape. At least that’s the closest I can describe them. So don’t pull on them. They can stretch. Weird huh! LOL! Still they are an excellent product.
As always Lawdog114, your technique on the IP is fascinating and just fantastic! Sorry you had to go through the issue with the fueselage. That can be a challenge at the time. But you definately took care of that one with a blink of an eye. You’re doing such a fantastic job on your builds, I’m learning so much from you. Thank you very much for teaching me with your WIP!
The IP looks really good. What’s it like working with those individual decals in 1/48th? I’ve though about it, just not sure about staying sane through it all.
That said, looking at your results, heck with what little sanity I have left, right?
What are these troublesome “plugs” you refer to, Joe? This is a new term to me.
Thanks all! 1/48 decals weren’t too bad. I use pointed tweezers to put them in place. These were actually designed for instrument panels with blank faces, like a lot of Tamiya kits, particularly their Spitfires. I got placards too but didn’t use the here.
Greg: plugs, inserts…same thing. Hasegawa trying to get the most out of their molds at our expense.
Thanks for the kind words. Now that I found the forum button hidden in community area. Oh kind Mod Folks, please leave well enough alone.
Anyways…still plugging away at this one. I got the frame together. I ended up needing a spreader bar inside the fuselage to help eliminate the wing root gaps. Then I needed a little putty at the starboard wingroot joint. Everything fit ok when I test fitted it, weird.
Here’s my first experience with Montex painting masks. It’s certainly nice not having to cut the circles out of Tamiya tape.
I painted each color then added the appropriate mask. These are durable and stick well to the surface. I also sprayed white then taped off the invasion stripes. I had to do the fuselage stripes after I taped off the fuselage roundels. Oye I had to think during this process.
All taped off ready for scheme…lot of work…
I replaced the cannon nubs with brass tubing as well.
After I sprayed the underside Tamiya Medium Sea Grey, I sprayed the top side Tamiya Ocean Grey XF-82. These colors were lightened and streaked a bit.
I then used Blue Tac worms and masked off the camo pattern. I filled in the areas to be left Ocean Grey with cheap masking tape…hideous yeah?
All worth it in the end. I’m extremely impressed with the Montex masks. No bleeding at all. I will certainly be using them again…
I gave everything a postshade to grunge it up. I was going for noticeable not overbearing, particularly around that Napier.
There’s a good chance I’ll dirty up the underside more…
That looks absolutely fantastic! Those Montex masks look really nice. I have a 1/24 Spitfire Mk.I and the decals are shot. All that I can find for AM are Montex masks and I’ve been hesitant to pull the trigger on getting them. But after seeing what you were able to do with them has made me reconsider.
Thanks guys. Bob, I can’t praise Montex enough. Like Eduard canopy masks, I may consider finding these for every build, at least for insignias and such.
Well after a small hiatus from the hobby (sometimes you just need a break), I sat down the other night and finished this one. It’s in the 137 Squadron markings on D-Day. 137 reportedly took part in air cover for the allied landings. The pilot for this particular plane is unknown. I chose this scheme because I was tasked with building a Tiffie with full stripes and these were the only bubbletop markings I could find. I used an Ultracast seat and tires. I added the 60 lbs. RP3 rockets then made the dangling fuses/leads (or whatever they are called) out of fine wire with a small chunk of styrene glued onto the end. These were apparently plugged in just before take off to avoid accidental discharges on the ground. I enjoyed the build and may give the car door version a whirl eventually.
Thats another stunner there, really nice finish and very wellweathered. Great littletuton useing the masks aswell. I have a set for my 24th Stuka and was planning on useing them after paiunting the scheme. But your way makes a lot more sense.Glad they work, may have to look at some 72nd ones.
As usual, a great build. You never fail to amaze me. I want to be like you when I grow up! LOL! Really nice specimen, I must say, and that complicated paint job really adds to an already good looking aircraft in its day. Cool!
