Hello, I took a little break from the forum for awhile, but I’ve still been pluggin away at the bench. I thought I would share my latest project. I was asked to a build a Bf 110 using the following picture.
It’s allegedly a C-4 model from 9/ZG26 based in Africa in 1942. It’s unknown how accurate the “drawing” is, but that wasn’t particularly important to whom I built it for. As long as it looks like the picture in the book we’re happy. Truthfully, to me it looks more like an E model, but all I had was Eduard C in my stash, so I used it. Except for the extended fuselage tail, it had the parts to duplicate the picture (thanks Eduard). I’m definitely no BF110 expert and my attempt to find out the differences was nauseating.
I added resin exhausts, wheels and gun barrels, but the rest was out of the box. The crosses were painted on with Montex masks and I pieced together the other markings out of my decal stash. Paint was a mix of Tamiya paints. The lighter brown is their recommendation for RLM 79 while the darker is XF-64 Red Brown. The underside was their mix for RLM 78. This was all mixed to my eye of course by adding white and buff respectively. I used the hairspray and liquid frisket techniques for chipping and Ammo Mig washes to dirty it up.
The Eduard 110 isn’t the easiest to build and takes patience. That said, once you get used to it’s quirks, it becomes much more enjoyable. This is my third one and each one gets a bit easier. I’m thinking a defense of the Reich G-2 with rockets soon.
Absolutely stunning work Lawdog 114! Love the camo scheme and that weathering/shading looks great. The Me- 110 was always one of my favorite WWII German aircraft.
Really nice build. I always like when you post because you explain paints used and techniques. One question if I may. I’m having mixed results with hairspray chipping. I use Tamiya paints and their X20A thinner. How long after the top color do you start chipping? how much water does it take to activate the hairspray?
Wow! Fantastic build LD. The desert scheme with your fading and chipping technique really pops. Looks great. Congrats. I haven’t ventured into 110 territory yet but someday will take the plunge.
Thank you. I thin mine with 91% Isprophyl or Tamiya Lacquer tinner. In mt experience, it depends on how long you let the paint cure. The longer you wait the harder it is to do. I usually let the water sit there and “eat” at the paint. Once you break through the chipping gets easier. It takes practice.
Thanks Chuck. That’s the worst part of the kit. There’s a slight step and gap so there’s lot of sanding, filling and rescribing. I found the port side to be the worst fitting one. I have found if you clamp the wing level during gluing it’s not as bad. It’s unfortunately a poorly engineered kit.