I think your yellow strips came off better than mine. I too had a lot of trouble getting the decals to meet up properly under the fuselage just behind the wing.
Nathan: I’ve heard the Academy and Hasegawa kits are pretty close in quality. The Academy does seem more available- or at least it was easier for me to find.
No need for a gloss black when using regular aluminum. Only Aclad’s high shine finishes need gloss black, such as airframe aluminum, polished al, stainless steel, and chrome. You did do a nice job with the gloss black though, and it can act as pre shading.
Yeah, I found that out when I did the drop tanks. Sprayed over Mr Surfacer 500. Came out looking great. 
As I stated on another forum, I am going to call a “do over” on this one. While I am happy with the overall build, not so happy with how thick some of the Alclad came out on portions of the bottom. So I purchased another Academy F-86 to start over again. This should go better since I will forgo using the rattle can(for the black) and stick with the airbrush. Plus I will add polished aluminum to the build.
At least I will have some more spare missiles for the AA-2 (AIM 9B) for my MIG 21 build if I read everything correct on the versions.
As stated, I had planned to redo this build since I wasn’t happy with how the paint came out. So I purchased another one on eBay and though it was already painted silver, it wasn’t an issue to strip the paint and start the build. This go around, the painting of the pilot figure went better then the first attempt. Still trying to get better at painting the cockpit panels. One of my better attempts, but still not up the quality that I see in other member’s posts, but that is what practice is for right?
After the paint has been stripped:
With the silver still on:
The pilot:
Cockpit and engine:
Worked on this build last night. Definitely going a lot smoother then the first time around. Except for the superglue fingerprints. Pilot is completed more or less and the fuselage halves and wings are completed and waiting to be joined. Since this is another wheels up build, I completed the gear doors while the wings were off the main body and before I applied the nose radome, definitely made things easier.
Main Body:
Wings:
Wings and nose attached.
Looks like the nose on this one doesn’t have nearly the step that your other one did? You’re plugging right along!
Groot
It’s getting there, just some minor bits and pieces and the canopy. unknown how this one doesn’t have the step in the nose like the other one, but I am not complaining!
Looks like she’s coming along pretty darn well so far.
So far, the only thing I have left is to complete the canopy and the HUD for this build. Will hold off on doing that until I remove the glue marks, thumb prints, and the seams. For the canopy, I know you can use white glue to attach it, but how much can one use? I’ve tried and just doesn’t seem to hold and dry correctly. For anyone who uses white glue for the canopies, do you find that you have to use a lot to secure it? Or the same amount of glue for other glues?
I only use a thin bead applied with a toothpick, too much and it oozes everywhere. I generally attach the canopy as the very last thing I do and don’t touch it there anymore since the white glue holds it but not that strongly.
Back after a small hiatus. (dang Xbox and Dead Space 2/XCom). I applied some putty and sanded some of the seams last night.
Still working on this one. Currently debating if I need to go to the primer stage after some clean up or keep going. thoughts and suggestions anyone?
If it were me, I’d probably hit it with some primer especially considering that it’s probably going to be a natural metal finish. Am I correct in assuming that? You know how it is with those metallics. The smoother the surface, the better. Might as well smooth over all the filler just to be on the safe side. I can’t wait to see how this one turns out!
Eric
This will be a NMF build and hopefully I can get a smoother and not as thick finish as m first go around. It looks like I am going to have to hit it with the primer just so I can see what needs to be fixed. I may have to get Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya’s liquid primer so I can make sure it doesn’t come out too thick. Gotta love this hobby!
I’ve never used the Mr. Surfacer as a primer before, only as a seam filler. Great stuff. I love the Tamiya primer in the rattle can. If only all paints would come out as smoothly as the Tamiya primer!
Eric
I used Mr. Surfacer 1000 from the spray can for prime, worked great. Filled in some minor scratches. I would recommend giving it a try.
sprayed some primer on it last night and had a better idea of what I need to correct. One issue I have to figure out is when doing a wheels up build, how to keep the seams for the wheel wells. Primed using Tamiya’s liquid primer through an airbrush.
Worked on this again last night. Let me know what you think.
