The old Tamiya kit … just for fun (a weekend work). Some extra detailing to get a little more realistic appearance to the basic kit (from 70´s)… Eduard PE set and weld lines from Lion Roar, spare parts form other kits… still some putty, sanding and polishing work missing !!! [:D]
Option 1 (mesh not attached)
The Typical Sdkfz 222 in Russia / Africa …
Option 2 (front and top shields not attached, just fixed with blue tac)
Option1 for sure. Option 2 traps the crew inside the vehicle with only the side hatches as a way out. Not good when facing the Russians in last-stand in Berlin. [:D]
Why? Frankly speaking, The interior of the Tamiya´s kit is completely naked and empty. So, option 2, with a plate over the turret, will hide this defects. “Hugo” (Hobby) - Boss kit is unbeatable as it includes the interior and more crisp details outside the vehicle (weld seams, wheels, hatches, PE parts…) So, if someone wants to make an “ordinary” Sdkfz 222 and do not want to spend a lot of time (and money) detailing the interior and the exterior of the kit … buy the Hobby Boss or the Tristar kit.
I made some modifications to my last pictures posted, here´s the result (actually, in the pictures the rivets are too big and I´ll change them)
Hi, Jose, no matter which option you choose I’m sure it will be spectacular, but I myself would love to see one of those as seen in Panzer Wrecks, stripped of wheels and abandoned on the streets of Berlin.
1.- With warm water and soap, clean all the model with care as we have to remove traces of grease (from our fingers), pizza, ice cream and any kind of dirt.
2.- On metal parts, I use Gunze Sangyo´s Metal primer applied with a brush. Yes, with a brush and care. [:D] With this primer, no peeling risk (my first experience was with some metal schurzen one year ago … since that moment, I use the metal primer [:$])
3.- Once dry, I apply Tamiya´s primer with my airbrush (I do not recomend to spray directly from the can). Do it little by little, in several thin coats until all the model is covered.
4.- Once the primer is dry (24 hours minimum), with a very very very very fine sandpaper, I start to polish all the surfaces to avoid granulated zones and imperfections. It´s the perfect moment to see how strong your PE parts are (and it´s the lunch time to our particular monster in the carpet [:(((] …)
