1/32 Tamiya Spitfire Mk IXc, Kenley Wing, Wing Cdr. J.E. "Johnnie" Johnson (Complete)

Perfection. Thank you for showing us mere mortals how it’s done. Indeed that’s a common issue with Montex. Not all but some, sort of an enigma. It seems like a quality control issue. I find that if you go back with the sticky side and dab the residue it comes off eventually.

For larger scales you’d be better off with Maktar masks, which is essentially Tamiya tape-like material. Unfortunately Maktar seems to only cater to these larger scales, 1/32 up. Now I need to build one of these Turkeys. Thanks for the hit on the wallet…lol.

Thanks Lawdog - you’re way too kind. Thanks for the help with the masks. I’ll check out Maktar.

Superb. I really do need to bite the bullet and try those insignia masks. I think what I appreciate the most about this build was the subtle weathering. Well done.

Thanks Madness. Much appreciated. Subtle weathering was the goal on this one. My understanding was that the plane was freshly painted just before being assigned to Johnson. So the exhausts would have seen several months of operation, but the rest of the airfame would be fairly fresh with just a bit of wear on the usual areas. Thanks again.

Excellent work Hoss. After seeing your build and snapdragonxxx recommendations about spraying the roundels and markings, I ordered a kit this morning. I can only hope my build comes out as nice as yours, but not likely lol.

An Outstanding result.

There are a few Tamiya 1/32 kits on my list and this is one of them. I need to lower my stash a bit and see what AM is actually available so I can make a plan.

Generally I do prefer Kabuki tape masks (Maketar) to vinyl masks, but sometimes you have no choice depending on what you want to do, although Maketar do have a custom order facility on their website if they don’t have a ready to purchase set available. You just need to do some research and use a conversion site so you can choose your type of mask and size and media.

I am very careful when it comes to paint. AK’s “Real Colour” is not as real as people think it is as the company uses “Scale Conversion” which is lighter than the original chipset. When they first released the range I aquired the RAL 7028 Dunkelgelb to compare with the real thing which I purchase for my restored Panzers from a company in Germany who makes it from their archive and compares it to their batch samples and original chipsets before sending it to me.

I was suprised to see that on testing, none of the AK Real Colors RAL 7028 Dunkelgelb matched the chipset or variants or the 3 batch samples I have and use which are original and match chipsets etc. In fact they were way out in shade and hue and look like what they used was ficticious or had been out in the sunshine and weather for a very long time.

Now I do know that Vallejo do not have this policy and their paints are Chipset accurate and I bet if you compared AK’s Ocean Grey to Vallejo Ocean Grey you will find AK’s much lighter than Vallejo’s.

MRP’s RAF insignia paints are chipset correct as I have no doubt you noticed and are nice to work with. I am considering getting a few of their paints and colour testing to see if their paints are shade different for camouflage etc.

I do Use AK paints when I have to and their Xtreme Metal range sits alongside Vallejo’s Metal Color range and although there is a “Crossover” in colour names, the shades are slightly different which gives me a greater tonal value as well as some metal colours which are not available in one range are available in the other. I have and do use both side by side on projects frequently.

My current Hellcat builds are all Vallejo apart from the metalwork on the engines of which the Cylinders are Xtreme stainless steel, the intake pipes Vallejo steel and the exhaust Xtreme burnt metal. Vallejo steel is just a tiny bit darker than Xtreme metal steel and therefore is a better contrast against the Stainless Steel which has a sligh barely noticable blueish tinge.

Paint is a preference and some paints are more accurate colourwise than others and some are better quality than others. It is up to modellers to spend time working out which is good for them.

Still. I am aware how good Tamiya’s recent prep aircraft are and are on my list to build and paint. An outstanding job done there and you should be proud of it!

Thanks Snapdragon! Much appreciated. I’ll definitely check out Maketar - thanks.

As for the paints, I’m still trying to figure out which range I prefer. I started out with Humbrol enamels and then switched to Mission Models acrylics for several builds. I’ve been happy with these paints, but after trying some others, I find they are a bit thick and spray inconsistently from color to color. They are great for detailing and touch ups. Overall it’s a nice system.

I’d stick with Mission Models if I had not discovered AK Real Colors. They spray wonderfully and their “story” on color accuracy is compelling. However, I’ve noticed variations between bottles of the same color and significant differences vs. other brands as you noted.

I’ve decided to run some comparisons. I tried MRP on this build and love these paints. I’m going to use them exclusively on an upcoming build. I also plan to try Mr. Color lacquers out soon. I’m adding Vallejo Air to the list. Thanks again.

Damn beautiful plane you created here! Been terrif to follow along plus very educational.
On your upcoming build you will have to letme in on the secret to keeping Vallejo from pulling up every time that tape is applied to it :slight_smile:

A great model of a beautiful plane, your lovely pictures do it justice.

Use surgeons gloves to handle the model. also remember that although touch dry quite quickly, it is best to give Vallejo a good 24 hours to cure properly and shake the bottle more than you are doing.

If the paint and primer are lifting then the surface of the plastic has something on it such as mold release agent. Wash the model in mild warm detergent, rinse under clear running water and let dry.

Also try putting the tape across the back of your hand to reduce the amount of sticky.

my rule of thumb. Let the paint dry for a full day. If you are going to be doing lots of masking amd leaving masking on for any length of time then the longer the paint has to cure, the better.

Absolutely beautiful work! That model is picture perfect! If it was mine, the only thing id do differently is to add a small exhaust stain. Those painted on markings look perfect. All in all, spot on. Smashing. Cheers- Rudy

Thanks Mongoose!

Thanks 1961

Thanks Rudy!

A truly fantastic result, good on you.

Thank you for taking the time to post.

I will look out for your next build.

Hoss, I just pulled this window back up on my laptop and see that I never got to reply on this thread. I think I was trying to do this back when you first posted finished pictures of this beautiful bird. Anyhow, you’ve done a fantastic job brining her to life. Construction of course is great but the paint is really something else. =]

Really something else!! I’m at a loss for words right now looking at it again. I’m gonna go get a towel now to wipe up all this drool. =] Thanks for sharing.

Thanks damouav. Much appreciated.

bvallot - Thank you very much for the kind comments.

Beautiful work.

Thanks Chemteacher