I purcahsed squadrons white filler but is seems too thick and dries very rough and porous. Sanding didn’t help much. Should the putty be thined first and if so with what?
ever so appreciative, the Newbie
Well, you can also try Squadron Green Putty, or maybe thick cyanoacrylate glue (superglue). If you use superglue, you’ll need to buy some accelerator to make it cure instantly. If not, it’ll take F O R E V E R (days) to cure enough so that you can sand it, if it does cure that much in open air (probably won’t). I’m sure a lot of the other guys here will have other ways to accomplish the same task, so just wait a little bit, and you’ll get some great answers.
There are many type of seam filler. If you like a simple putty, I think the best is Blue Acryl by 3M for auto body repair. Unfortunately, it only comes in a pretty large tube, and unless you plan on building only really bad vacu-form models, you’ll probably never use all of it. It has an extremely fine grain, you can sand it to just a feather edge.
I prefer to use plasti-zapp super glue with an accelerator, but you have to sand it pretty quickly. If you wait more than a day or so the super glue cures too hard to work easily.
Perhaps the neatest trick is to use a 2 part, water-based putty like Milliput (White-superfine). It’s perfect for areas that you dont want to sand too much (wing roots, canopy to fuselage join points, etc.). Since it’s a water based putty, you knead together equal amounts of part A and part B, then work it into the seam you want to fill, wet your finger and start rubbing. The water acts like the sandpaper, it works it down till it’s perfectly smooth-no sanding! Then let it dry (about a day or so). The only problems are the long dry time and the cost. The white costs about $10-$12. And you get so much that it invariably dries out before I can use all of it. If they would sell it in, say, 1/4 size (or less) at 1/4 the price it would be perfect. I have had to throw out more Milliput because it was dried out just when I really needed it, then go out and buy another package for another $12 only to use a tiny portion and the rest dries up, infuriating!
Lastly, if you still want to use the Squadron Green stuff you’ve already bought, try mixing a drop or two of lacquer thinner with it. It keeps it from drying out so fast and can be worked a bit thinner, though it does take a little bit longer to dry completely. Not too much lacquer thinner, though, because it will attack the styrene.
I think the bottom line is that no one uses only one type of putty. All the different types have their strengths and will work in different applications. For instance, super glue/accelerator for fuselage seams, Milliput for wing roots, Blue Acryl for building up different areas to bring them to one level, etc… Experience is always your best teacher. Try them all and find out which one works for you in your particular need.
Hope this helps.
Oh, I’m sorry, I forgot my favorite new filler. White Out. I is perfect for slight seam problems or correcting wrong panel lines or scratches. It dries almost instantly, and can be sanded just like any other putty.
If you need something that’s slightly more durable, Gunze Sanyo makes “Mr Surfacer”. Despite the stupid title it’s a great product. Almost as easy to use as the White Out, but much more substantial. I’ve started to use it almost all the time. It’s much easier to sand on than any other puttys.
www.swannymodels.com go there to the tips section… all you need to know
Guys,
When I use the Squadron Green Stuff filler I mix in some Testors liquid glue to thin it up and it sets down in the crack better, you can paint it on in layers and build it over the seam so when it cures you won’t have a sink hole. Makes it even finer grain.
I felt the same way you do about the Squadron putty…so I bought Tamiya putty and Gunze “Mr. White Putty.” The Tamiya putty is tops for the application you speak of. Gunze product is too gooey.
The Tamiya putty is made with very fine fillerand it dries quickly, however 1 word of caution…the acetone in the putty will disolve and etch the plastic you are applying it to. ( It has to in order for it to bond) So don’t be sloppy by sploogeying it on. Use masking tape as you might do for paint and be sparing. I learned the hard way.
Squadron Putty can be thinned with either Acetone or Nail Polish remover containing acetone. This can thin the putty down so much that you can actually apply it with a brush.( depending on how much you use) You do have to work quickly though because the acetone will evaporate very quickly.
Lopper has said it first. Mask the seam as close as you can to the seam to be filled. You can then apply the thinnned putty to the seam.The mask will protect the surrounding plastic. Once the seam is filled between the mask and the putty has set up a bit. You can actually take a q-tip and dip it in the acetone or nail polish remover and run it along the seam and this will remove any extra putty on the mask and smooth out the putty in the seam so that very little or no sanding may be needed.
Good luck with it and hope this helps
Paul
Use nail polish remover…regular strength… it won’t disolve the plastic of your model and it has a long working time before evaporating.
Super glue with Johnson’s baby powder over the top of it works quite well. Just take the super glue and let run down the the seam like normal. Take the baby powder and spinkle it on the super glue. Wait a minute or two and go to work on the seam. The baby powder mixes in with the glue and it sands to a almost glass smooth finish. I take my finger and carefully push the baby powder into the glue before I sand it. For some reason the baby powder does not allow the super glue to get as hard as normal. I can’t take credit for discovering this. I read it as a tip in FSM if I remember right. I have had pretty good luck with this method.