1/200 Yamato and PE railings

Modeling Subjects Ships
1

Hi all,

I’m trying to get all my ducks in a row before starting my Nichimo 1/200 Yamato. I was reading in Mike Ashey’s book on building and detail ships and he suggests not using PE railing on 1/200 models but instead scratchbuilding the railings. He believes the PE railing looks too flat in 1/200 scale. Any comments or suggestions on this?

Thanks,

Jesse

2

For what little it’s worth, I’m inclined to agree with Mr. Ashey. To my eye, guardrails on 1/700 scale (or smaller) look fine - especially if they’re made to “sag” in the right places. On 1/350 scale they start to look like what they are: pieces of metal tape with holes in them. And at 1/200 scale I’m afraid my willing suspension of disbelief would be seriously taxed.

It seems like it might be practicable for some aftermarket manufacturer to make a photo-etched metal set on 1/200 with individual rail stanchions - and holes in them for wire guardrails.

On the other hand, I see Gold Medal Models offers a couple of sets of photo-etched parts (including railings) for the Nichimo Yamato. I haven’t seen these particular products, but everything I’ve ever seen with the GMM label on it has been first-class. Mr. Perry, the owner, frequently updates his products when new information or technology becomes available. It’s quite possible that those railings are superior to anything that was available when Mr. Ashey’s book was published.

3

I’ve actually seen something like that, recently … I think a Modelwarships.com product review of new Confederate ironclad models.

4

I want to remember that Dromedary or the like was offering either 1/96 (1/8") or 1/192 (1/16") three-hole p/e stanchions–but I could also be mis-remembering one of the scads of catalogs that have been in or about the house. I remember this, as I remember thinking that the only hiccup was going to be in finding rail stock straight enough to not drive a person loopy (or having to ‘load’ a stack of stanchions on the rails, then slide them to where they needed anchoring . . . )

I’ve been slighting surprized to not see more relief-etched p/e. Sure, it’s another pass, and aanother set of masks, etc. But, considering the market, and the demands of the customers, it would seem like a natural “upgrade” a bigger outfit would/could have over the “cottage” businesses (or vice versa).

5

Look right here Part number 2004

http://www.tomsmodelworks.com/detail.asp?Ship!Detail!Sets!-!Large|1/192!&!1/200!Scale!Sets

Hope this helps!!!

B

6

Some years ago, I could read in FSM magazine new techniques about PE parts and CA glue.

Some PE parts are too flat, but, with CA glue and “accelerator” (or “kicker”), you can give them some thickness. I remember, I built a “bachstelze” (kind of small helicopter on board of U-boats) in 1/72nd scale, just with PE parts. What is funny, and due to the capillarity of CA glue, if you put some drops of CA glue on a PE part and dry it with accelerator, your part cill be cylindrical like a pipe. Though, this technique requires some trials first.

Michel